RETF feeding help plz

[Z3r0San1ty]

Hi Friday I purchased a Red-Eyed tree Frog and created a terrarium that is filled with moss, plastic plants a water bowl, and a tree log, nothing to fancy yet still
Trying to work in a mister or waterfall soon but my issue right now is for the past few days I have not gotten him to eat a cricket yet, they are gut loaded from a petshop but it seems everytime he wakes up I try to hand feed him a cricket he does not want to eat him and just goes right back to sleep, I've tried leaving a red light on that's suppose to help
Me view him but I feel the light is being too
Much heat for him for why he keeps going back
To sleep so I turn off the lights and sleep it off with 2 crickets in the tank and I wake up
To see he hasn't touched a single cricket, I'm worried about him for eating sake, I've tried leaving mealworms in a bowl Overnight and he hasn't
touched them either so any advice would be very helpful on what to do to get
him to eat the live crickets thanks in advance

[Kisa]

When you first bring a new frog home it may take them a few days to adjust and get used to their surroundings. Lots of frogs bought from chain or other types of pet shops and not directly from a breeder will have trouble eating at first, especially if the animal is wild caught.

Just leave him alone for a few days, offer him crickets in the viv, not in your hand or on tweezers, and see if he goers for them then. There's no need to panic if you've only had the frog a few days, just sit back and try to relax, he'll come around eventually if you just try and leave him alone. He's probably frightened of you, he needs a few weeks to know you're not a predator.

[Leefrogs]

Make sure your crickets aren't too big. Other than that, Kisa is right. It takes a while before they get used to you and being in a house with so much more noise than they're used to. Set your alarm for 2 am, and as long as he's moving around and hunting, he's fine. Good luck, keep in touch

[Z3r0San1ty]

I appreciate the quick replies back, I am just worried he might be starving himself thats basically what it comes down to the crickets are large that are in the tank with him atm and I believe his size is juvi, don't believe he is at adult stage yet so Ill leave him be and see if he can adapt and eat those crickets with all the lights out, though side question would be I have a open mesh top which I sit a light on and have some towels covering the airflow out the top during the daytime and I can get the tempature to stay around 80, but have to continue spraying to get the humidity to be atleast around 76, is that a good temp and humidity for day hours, because I'm seeing mixed reviews on what temps/humidity should be during day and night hours. plus Im trying to decide which would be a better route to go buying a mister or getting a waterfall built in to keep humidity up so I'm not constantly spraying in the tank. Thanks again in advance.

[bshmerlie]

Welcome to the forum. You've come to the right place. There are many members here who keep red eyes. First please read the Care article for them on the left. That is the best place to start to make sure you are meeting his needs. If you can post a picture of his terrarium so that we can see how you have everything set up. Next, at night keep all the lights off. Make it completely dark not even the red light. Your frogs main diet is going to consist of crickets no bigger than the space between his eyes. My red eyes don't like worms or things like that. You will also need to dust your cricktets with vitamins and calcium powder that you can get at a reptile shop. It should say on the bottle if it is safe for amphibians. Please make sure he has clean fresh water (treated with water conditioner) in a bowl every night. Cover the sides of the tank to help him feel secure and within the next few weeks you will see him start to venture around. The more plants with wide smooth leaves in the tank he has for cover the quicker he will adapt to his new home. Resist the urge to constently look in on him. Mist him in the morning and at night and that should be suffient to keep your humidity in the right range depending on what kind of substrate you are using. Again read the care article. Do a search on the cricket bowl that many members use here for feeding. This will help you to monitor what he is eating. If he is a young frog you should offer up as much as he is willing to eat each night. Again post some pictures of your frog and his enclosure so that we may be able to help you better. Keep us posted on how he is doing.

[Z3r0San1ty]

Ok I've attached some pictures of the tank which consists of silk plants, log, water dish, and moss on the bottom, also there is a heating pad below undeanth the tank and 2 lamps above on a stainless steel mesh top which we use one lamp at a time to keep the temp around 80 degrees, though where should humidity be because the caresheet only showed temps for day and night but didn't specify where humidy level should be for day and night, though to keep humidity in I have to cover up a good portion of the top with a towel to make sure the heat doesn't get out, but as for humidity which would be a better route to go, should I get a waterfall or a automatic mister, maybe some links of good models to have would help too. Below I also posted a video my girlfriend and I took before we put him in his new terrarium which is shown below so any advice to help make him more comfortable let me know I'm open for suggestions. As of right now I replaced a cricket since it died and did not see it this morning, I still have to sift through the moss to see if it was actually eaten or not.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...y/IMG_0565.mp4

[Kisa]

As far as I can see your viv looks pretty good. It's the right size and you've provided lots of leafage and cover high up so the frog can hide and feel safe. The two temperatures you saw in the care sheet were for day and night, 80 is just a little high for Red Eyes I would try to keep it in the high seventies, but 80 isn't TOO bad, it's when you start going above that that it can get dangerous. The humidity should be around 70% as far as I know, though I don't keep Red Eyes I know their care is similar to that of the Super Tiger Legged Monkey frogs which I DO have. XD

Also, you can cover a portion of the top of your viv to keep heat and humidity in, but try not to restrict ventilation TOO much, tree frogs are arboreal and need clean air to thrive so keeping the vivi completely closed off is always a bad idea.

Nice video by the way, your frog looks very healthy. Try to leave him alone for the first few weeks though, they tend to become very skittish and stressed out if you're always peeking in on them, touching them, holding them, that kind of thing.

[Z3r0San1ty]

Ok so instead of starting a different thread I figured I'd keep the questions in my own thread, so to update:

he has been eating the crickets lately (we know this for we are seeing poop now in the tank) but he has an unusual red bump on his nose (Below is a link to a picture), while my girlfriend and I were about to start searching for crickets in the tank she noticed the underside of the log has like a mold starting to grow on it and some of the moss in the corner has some mold, so when we were taking him out of the tank to clean it he decided to jump toward the ceiling which then it popped open his nose and some blood started to leak out. What exactly is the cause of this red bump and how to solve it as well as the mold issue we only spray decholridated water for misting purposes only and clean his water bowl daily. Also we noticed that the dust we had for the past week has been without D3, which we went to the store and bought a bottle with D3 to start dusting the crickets in since the caresheet said it needed D3. Any helpful advise would be appreciated thanks in advance.

[Leefrogs]

A little mold is normal for a new tank. Instead of stressing him out more, by removing him from the tank, try to scoop mold up from the dirt, or use vinegar on a Qtip to keep it under control. The red is a nose rub as he's trying to escape. This is more comon in wild caught animals. You should cover 3 sides of the tank for a month or so. Remove one side at a time a week or so appart. When you remove the first side, if he changes sleeping to the covered side you might want to leave it on longer. It shows he's still scared and likes the cover for "protection"

If the nose rub gets worse or bigger looking in a week use normal neosporin on it. Make sure it's NOT neosporin plus-/ this has additives that numb, and will kill your frog. I think as soon as you cover the cage and get rid of the red light you'll see a calmer frog.

[Z3r0San1ty]

Well we only have a piece of brown like cardboard stuck up against the back wall and that's usually where he tends to see is on that side with the brown wall, so you saying that's a sign that he is still scared of the tank and we should put brown walls up on 3 sides to make him feel more secure? Also I thought the red nightlight bulb was good for him as he has no vision of the bulb, it helps keep the tank around 70 at night l, but it just feels like when we have that light on top of the cage on he sees it and goes to sleep instead of waking up like he should be, the bulb is 40watts I figured lower wattage would be better, though if red light bulb is bad what kind of light can I use to be able to leave on throughout the night so it wouldn't effect his sleep pattern but I could still view him at night from a distance.

[Kisa]

What Ginger means is to tape pieces of paper to the outside of the viv to keep him from seeing out and you from seeing in. I have done this to all three of my tanks so far and it has worked wonders. It makes the frog feel more secure until they start getting used to being in a cage with human hands poking and prodding all the time. Do your best to not look at him for too long or too frequently, give the frog time to settle in and it will eventually stop trying to escape and become used to your interventions (cleaning the tank, feeding, etc.)

As for the bulb, I would leave it off for a few hours after lights out and turn it on right before you go to bed. See if that works to keep him awake in the night. Most Red Eyes I;ve heard won't wake up with any kind of light at all, they have big sensitive eyes. he could also be sleeping through the night right now because he's scared, like I said, give him time to get used to you and this behavior should change in the nest month or so.