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Thread: Whites tree frog advice needed please

  1. #1
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    Default Whites tree frog advice needed please

    Hello everyone, I am the very proud new owner of two gorgeous young Whites tree frogs. I just got them on Saturday and this is my first time keeping frogs.
    I have done months and months (probably closer to a year) research on them but one thing that I keep reading conflicting things on is how much to feed, how often to feed and how often you should dust the crickets with calcium and vitamins (I have one tub of each not mixed)
    One of my frogs is about 2 inches from nose to bottom and the other one is just a tiny bit smaller.
    Could someone give me some guidance on these please.
    Also is it a better idea to move them to something like a critter keeper or something similar for feeding time and just dump the crickets in or is it better to tong feed?
    So far I have been tong feeding in the tank but while I have them in their quarantine tank I am keeping them on plain white paper towels and last night one of the crickets dropped a leg and got away. My bigger frog grabbed him straight away but he got a mouthful of paper towel in his eagerness. I managed to get the paper towel out of his mouth but he didn't want to give it up without a fight, I think he was worried I was trying to steal his cricket.
    Any tips for the feeding would be really appreciated, its the only thing I am not 100% sure of still.
    Thank you.

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    100+ Post Member DanDrobates's Avatar
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    Default Re: Whites tree frog advice needed please

    Opinions vary among keepers but I can offer the following advice. I’ve been keeping whites on and off for 20 years and they are generally hardy and good eaters. Currently I cup feed. This essentially means that I keep a 16 oz deli cup in the vivarium and when I feed I drop the feeders in the cup. The frogs do the rest. I’m not a fan of tong feeding and this allows the frogs to feed more naturally in their own vivarium with almost no risk of impaction. As far as supplementation goes I use repashy super cal every other feeding. I also use reptivite once a week instead of the repashy and I always gutload my feeders on carrots and dandelion greens. The dusting is light. The dusted insects shouldn’t look like little ghosts. I feed my adults 3 times a week and occasionally I’ll let them fast for a week. I’ve found that the occasional fast equals a longer lifespan as every frog I’ve let fast outlives the ones I’ve fed consistently. I hope this helps and good luck.

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    Default Re: Whites tree frog advice needed please

    Thanks for that information Dan, it is much appreciated. I would rather take opinions from frog keepers with experience rather than that of any store as I have learned from past experience with my fancy goldfish that sometimes store employees (not all employees though) don't always have a clue.
    I am totally in love with these frogs, even though I have only had them since Saturday I can already see that they have totally different personalities. One is very outgoing and already seems to come to the front and has even jumped onto the front glass to see what I am doing while the other one is quite shy and stays in one spot most of the time. I'm sure he/she is fine though, it gobbles its crickets down very eagerly when its feeding time.
    Thanks again.

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    Default Re: Whites tree frog advice needed please

    Not a problem at all. I’m glad my post was helpful.

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    100+ Post Member Larry Wardog's Avatar
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    Default Re: Whites tree frog advice needed please

    Hey I think this might be able to help you. It's unfinished but I own this UNFINISHED
    Care sheet





    Litoria Caerulea aka the "Dumpy" Tree Frog is arguably one of the most well known frogs in the pet trade currently and this is a care sheet specifically on keeping these frogs as I have done for many years.

    About this frog:
    The White's Tree Frog is one of the most hardy frogs it's located in Indonesia and the majority of Australia. The Blue Phase of the species is said to be from Australia as the Indonesian frogs seem to lack this skin pigment. They come in Gold, Snowflake (lots of white dots) and Blue Eyes as well as normal green and blue phase. This is the third largest species of tree frog in the world reaching 4.5-5 inches. They are known as dumpy because they are prone to obesity easily.

    Enclosure Size:
    These are big frogs. They will sit and take up your whole hand when they reach adulthood. A true adult is around 6-8 years when they fill out and get to be adult size. It takes them a long time to grow to full size so you have to think ahead to what would be best for the third largest tree frog species in the world?

    A 29 gallon would be good for one frog. If keeping just one a standard 18x18x24 Exo Terra Terrarium will be great or a 29 gallon aquarium with a screen lid.
    For more frogs I would only reccomed 4 in a 75 Gallon or larger. These frogs are communal meaning they enjoy company and like to have others of their species join them. A 75 Gallon, Exo Terra 24x18x36, 36x18x36, 125 Gallon or larger will accommodate 2-3 pairs (up to 6)

    Temperature and Humidity:
    These frogs are from a warmer climate so they need warmer conditions then just regular house temperature. They are able to adapt to different conditions because some live in temperate climates in the wild and some live in rainforest conditions.

    What we do know is during the day these frogs need mid 80 degrees. I kept some in lower temperature and they were lethargic and not as adventurous.

    Daytime mid 80's
    Night time 65-70

    These frogs can tolerate cooler conditions at night and it's good for the frogs if they get a good temperature drop from day to night.

    Humidity:
    Some keep their frogs at 30-50 while some keep like rainforest conditions so 65+

    I prefer to keep them with more humidity so they don't dry out. These frogs are very responsive to higher humidity it gets them more active.

    Lighting:
    I believe these frogs need to have UVB lighting to metabolize Calcium so this light is a must. I've kept my frogs with this light for their entire lives. You don't have to commit to all UVB lighting you can have a clamp light of UVB and the frogs if they want it will go sit under it. These frogs bask as they sleep. They are heavy sleepers too. One way you can increase heat is using T5 lighting which is full spectrum lighting and creates heat. I would recommend for T5 the Odyssea T5 Quad Light Fixture with a timer for these frogs and for UVB an Exo Terra 26 Watt UVB bulb. The T5 light will simulate morning, afternoon, evening and night. The fixture has 3 sets of lights one controlling one strip of lights one controlling two sets and the LED good as a moon light. You can easily setup this light and program it. I've had my light over 4 years and not had to replace the bulbs yet. You can set a timer for the clamp UVB light to come on during the day for this frog.

    Misting for humidity:
    You can get a spray bottle and mist morning and evening for humidity and pick up a hygrometer to see the temperature and humidity in the tank. One more costly but more effective way is to use a misting system you can purchase from Petco or Amazon. The Monsoon Misting System and Mistking are great choices. You have to setup the device and fill it up and it will do the rest. You can set the time for it to come on depending on the mister you purchase. You can also use a fogger such as the Evergreen Pet Supplies Reptile Fogger to provide a really cool effect and this can provide humidity and hydrate the frogs. The fogger is the cheaper option but either or both options are more convenient and also great for display. Another way to keep humidity in is with putting plexiglass on your lid or using it as a lid. This keeps temperature and humidity well. My frogs have been fine with using the plexiglass and it keeps their humidity above 60 in a hallway during winter that is about 20% humidity so it works. It's like a greenhouse effect in a way.

    Plants and Decor:
    When keeping these frogs they love to have platforms to bask so the Zoo Med Mushroom Ledge is great for basking. Other accessories would be cork bark to allow them to climb and hide. Pothos works well with frogs and it grows in water and on land. It's that evasive. It can even take over your tank if you let it! Peace Lillies work great they enjoy moist conditions and stay smaller. Some ferns may work but it depends on the type of environment you choose to provide for your frogs. I'm not a great exotic plants guy but there are some you can find that look cool that are worth a try. What's life without risk taking right?
    Some small palms will work and lucky bamboo are other very hardy plants that would work with the frogs.


    Feeders:
    These frogs need a variety in their diet. They need supplements such as calcium with D3 and a vitamin without D3 and need the insects to be gutloaded. You can feed the crickets the vitamin and calcium with fish flakes, bird seed, cricket chow, crested gecko diet and fruit. You can feed all or some of this to crickets, roaches and any type of insect that's an omnivore. These frogs need variety so you can feed Pet Store Crickets, Banded Crickets, Dubia Roaches, Green Banana Roaches, Butter Worms, Waxworms, Repti Worms, Hornworms, and others as well. You can feed some but not just one or two or else your frog will not pass it's food as well and will not get a full diet that will help it to thrive and live longer. You can feed these frogs 2-3 times a week and use the calcium the first day nothing the second day and the vitamin the third day. That would work for their supplements. You should try to feed the frogs different insects at feeding time so they get the variety each time. This cuts down on the amount of feeder insects. You can buy probably half the amount of crickets by using two other insects like waxworms and repti worms with the crickets.

    Conclusion:
    These frogs are great pets and are very unique with their own personality and are friendly but also incredible hunters. If you give them an appropriate sized setup, good lighting, varied diet and spoil them with misters and foggers or even if you don't and just provide the best care you can then these frogs can live up to 26-27 years. They are known for getting close to 30. They will be your friend for a long time.

    Sent from my BLN-L24 using Tapatalk


    Sent from my BLN-L24 using Tapatalk

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    Default Re: Whites tree frog advice needed please

    Wow thank you, only just seen this but I will have a good read of this.

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