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Thread: New Frog Not Eating

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    Default New Frog Not Eating

    I recently got a PacMan Frog 3 days ago from a Petco. I know it's not the best option but it was what I could afford and it was easy. When I got his cage set up and put him in the enclosure he hopped around a bit and then burrowed into the substrate. I have soft bark substrate and mixed moss into it, he has a water bowl a hollow log and a plant. I use two ceramic bulb heaters one with uv lights and one as just a heater for night. I mist his cage everyday and his cage is at about 75 degrees. I've tried feeding him worms and crickets both alive and he just sits and stares at them. I've tried laying them in front of him and using tongs. When I got him from the store he was buried deep underground as well and seemed lethargic. Here is a picture of him and his enclosure. Is there something wrong with him or is he still settling in?
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    100+ Post Member Frogman1031's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Frog Not Eating

    Hello and Welcome to Frog Forum!!

    Your frog is probably still acclimating to its new environment, allow it to adjust for a few days before attempting to feed again.

    that moss and bark you have in the enclosure is a big no-no! When the frog gets bigger it will be able to swallow those things. This can lead to a blockage of the digestive tract known as impaction, which can be fatal! I strongly recommend using damp coco fibre instead

    the enclosure is actually too big for your frog right now. Baby pacmans are easily intimidated by large spaces in which they feel insecure and vulnerable. You can find smaller critter keepers at the pet store for cheap which will house your frog for about 6 months to a year, after which time you can return the frog to this enclosure when it's at adult size. The critter keeper should ideally be equivalent to 1-2 gallons.

    As for heating, the temperature should be higher during the day. Daytime temperatures should be between 80-83 degrees fahrenheit, with a slight drop at night. The ceramic bulbs, while not inherently bad, are ill advised as they dry out the enclosure. The best way to keep the heat up is with a heat pad attached to the SIDE of the enclosure. But if the temperature can be maintained sufficiently in the low 80's during the day and the humidity stays between 65-75% there shouldn't be a problem.

    Moving your frog to a smaller enclosure may also help it to find its food, as they will be within close quarters. Another tip is to leave the room after dropping the frogs food in and coming back in about 20 minutes. This will ensure the frog can feel safe enough to venture out and eat.

    Hope this helps!

    Litoria
    caerulea 1.1.0 (White's Tree Frog)
    Lampropeltis triangulum hondurensis ​0.1.0 (Anerythristic Honduran Milk Snake) Tliltocatl albopilosus 0.0.2 (Curly Hair Tarantula)
    Aphonopelma hentzi 0.0.1 (Texas Brown Tarantula)
    Avicularia avicularia 0.0.2 (Pinktoe Tarantula)
    Brachypelma smithi ex. annitha 0.0.1 (Mexican Giant Red Knee Tarantula) Monocentropus balfouri 0.0.2 (Socotra Island Blue Baboon Tarantula)
    Harpactira pulchripes
    0.0.1 (Golden Blue Leg Baboon Tarantula)

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