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Thread: White's tree frog advice?

  1. #1
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    Default White's tree frog advice?

    Sorry in advance for how long and tedious this is.

    I'm Vincent. I'm 14 and very new to having frogs, and I'd like some advice on taking care of my frogs, feedback for the care they're getting, exc. I have four frogs, one juvenile White's tree frog, Bungus Mash, and three African dwarf frogs. I've had the African dwarf frogs for approximately 1-2 months(?), and Bungus since November 12th. Today I'll be asking for advice on Bungus Mash. I've read many caresheets (I tried to read the one here, but it came up with a 404 error), and here is a list of information I've gotten so far:
    Use sphagnum moss so the frog won't accidentally eat substrate
    Feed mealworms, superworms or crickets. Dust with calcium powder a few times a week. Don't feed too many meal/superworms as they're high in chitin
    It's good to feed in a separate enclosure to avoid ingestion of substrate
    Live plants should be rinsed and grown outside of enclosure for a few weeks before planted, should be replanted in amphibian safe soil
    Frog is overweight if supratympanic ridges start to cover eyes

    Information on our current setup:
    Terrarium has an 18x18 base and is 36 inches high. When we first got him he lived in a much smaller enclosure, but we got this new one after a week or so.
    Sphagnum moss substrate, which gets stuck to Bungus and seems to be quite loose
    We feed him meal/superworms every few days in a little dish with calcium powder in it
    With crickets we try to feed him in a separate little plastic enclosure. He's usually fine with it, but tonight he didn't seem interested in the crickets.
    ReptiFogger automatic mister, humidity set to 70 and heat set to 78F
    Heating pad on back side of enclosure
    No live plants. Not much at all in there at the moment, I'm working on getting more stuff. I would like to have more going up the sides so he can sit up high.
    Has a little bowl of frog safe water, refilled daily. Likes to sit in it when he comes out.
    Used to be out in the day, but lately has only come out at night. Hides in hollow logs or under moss
    I handle him only to put him in the separate cricket feeding enclosure. I used to handle him with bare hands rinsed with sink water (which I'm very ashamed of), but I've recently been holding him with nitrile free gloves without rinsing.

    That's all I can think of at the moment. I would add pictures, but when I try to it says it's an invalid file type. Thank you????

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  3. #2
    100+ Post Member elly's Avatar
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    Default Re: White's tree frog advice?

    Hi! Our picture uploader on the website isn't working, if you want to post a picture maybe you could upload to flickr or picassa and post here from that site? Also sadly our caresheet is down.

    But this looks like good information you've gathered.

    Moss can be okay if it's ground very fine or in strings too long for the frog to eat but I've heard of frogs becoming impacted from eating large pieces of moss so maybe be careful. If you're annoyed by the dirt sticking to your frog, you can try to find leaves that break down slowly like magnolia or live oak, boil them, bake them (carefully, watching to make sure they don't catch fire) and use those on top of the dirt. It's probably a good idea to get them from an area that you know doesn't spray for pests.

    If you can't do that, you can try putting large rocks around to weight down some of the moss. If you do make sure that they're too big for the frog's mouth. I like to be on the safe side and use ones about the same size as my frogs! You'll need to wash and boil them first. I don't recommend baking them because sometimes they explode in the oven.

    As far as the humidity goes, suggested humidity seems to vary. I know there are people who would say White's are better off at less than 70% humidity, but then the frogs come from places with wide ranges of humidity. As far as I know 70% is fine, you might want to set it lower now and then just for variety.

    Oh and enjoy your frog! Hiding a lot sometimes isn't necessarily a bad sign like poor appetite or patchy shedding would be. Sometimes frogs just keep odd hours. Especially if you just moved him to the tank he might be hiding more than normal.

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  5. #3
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    Default Re: White's tree frog advice?

    Hi Vincent

    You've done your homework and your frogs should do well as a result

    However, ditch the heat mat, or place it underneath the tank for substrate heating and then place a heat lamp for a basking temp of 85F - whites tree frogs like to bask. Temps should be reduced at night. They may also benefit from exposure to UVB for bone structure and it will bring out their colours. Remember to gutload the insects. For further reading I would avoid Care sheets in general and focus more on books. Popular tree frogs by de Vosjoli, mailloux and ready is an excellent one to consider.

    I agree with Elly that providing a variety of humidity levels is better, so in my opinion foggers are not good if used all the time. The basking site at the top of the tank will dry the air out a bit at that side, but the other side will be higher in humidity. We know it's a good idea for a thermal gradient, but it's also a good idea to have humidity gradients in the terrarium or at different times of day, such as lower at day and higher at night.

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  7. #4
    100+ Post Member monster's Avatar
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    Sep 2014

    Default Re: White's tree frog advice?

    Here is the link to the caresheet on the forum. To access them you need to hit home on the top and then pick the care articles in the small print in the blue not the one in the green.

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