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Thread: White's tree frog won't eat!

  1. #1
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    Unhappy White's tree frog won't eat!

    Hey guys,

    First time posting and it's not for a positive reason unfortunately.
    I moved 2 previously owned White's tree frogs in close to 3 weeks ago.
    They're in a converted fish tank that's about 60(w)x24(d)x55(h)cm with a bespoke lid made from acrylic to trap the humidity in the tank (it has a mesh part for air circulation).
    It's a male and female (Chief & Cortana), the female eats like a champion but the male hasn't eaten since they got here.
    I thought it was the stress of the move at first and even once I had gotten to tank properly kitted out with substrate etc he just doesn't seem to have settled.
    I've been feeding them 4th Hoppers, with a calcium powdered hopper once a week.

    I've tried putting the male (Chief) in a separate container with a few hoppers to see if he'd take to them but he just didn't seem interested, stayed in one corner and even let hoppers sit on his head without even blinking.
    I've tried just putting some hoppers in the tank overnight but I wake up to find some are still alive and most of them just get eaten by the female (Cortana).
    The size difference is really starting to show and it's starting to worry me, I'm aware the males are supposed to be smaller but he just seems far too slim now.
    The humidity tends to average at about 40-55 and the temperature tends to stay around 25-30C during the day and 18-23 at night.
    I've gotten in touch with the previous owner and they haven't responded which is unhelpful, Any ideas?

    Thanks

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    Default Re: White's tree frog won't eat!

    Hi

    Always provide good ventilation and just mist a few times a week for temporary increases to 70%, it should be 50-60% the majority of the time. They should have a basking area of at least 30C from a heat lamp and the background should be a few degrees cooler. Calcium should be used every time an insect with a bad Ca:P ratio like locusts, roaches, superworms or crickets are used unless you feed the insects on a high-calcium diet. vitamin D3 and A should be limited to weekly depending on supplements used and their intended use. Most believe that UVB is a much safer way to provide vitamin D3 to whites tree frogs. Still a good idea to use some preformed D3 and A occasionally, though. Keep lights on for 12-14 hours a day for a photoperiod.

    Frogs will take a few weeks to adjust to a new enclosure but by now I would have thought they'd be feeding well. For the one that is underweight, tong feed a pinkie mouse dipped in calcium or some supplemented superworms, these are high in fat and can be used for bulking up. Are there any signs of nutritional disorders that be causing a frog
    not too eat? Any runny faeces which would suggest parasites?

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    Default Re: White's tree frog won't eat!

    From reading the end of your post stating that you have tried to contact the previous owner with no results I would say its a safe bet to say the frog was ill before you got it. This could be why he was getting rid of them.

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    Default Re: White's tree frog won't eat!

    Quote Originally Posted by monster View Post
    From reading the end of your post stating that you have tried to contact the previous owner with no results I would say its a safe bet to say the frog was ill before you got it. This could be why he was getting rid of them.
    Small chance that he could have been to busy to look after them and so reply. But could be a possibility if the guys was that much of an **** to do that.

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    Default Re: White's tree frog won't eat!

    Quote Originally Posted by jasonm96 View Post
    Hi

    Always provide good ventilation and just mist a few times a week for temporary increases to 70%, it should be 50-60% the majority of the time. They should have a basking area of at least 30C from a heat lamp and the background should be a few degrees cooler. Calcium should be used every time an insect with a bad Ca:P ratio like locusts, roaches, superworms or crickets are used unless you feed the insects on a high-calcium diet. vitamin D3 and A should be limited to weekly depending on supplements used and their intended use. Most believe that UVB is a much safer way to provide vitamin D3 to whites tree frogs. Still a good idea to use some preformed D3 and A occasionally, though. Keep lights on for 12-14 hours a day for a photoperiod.

    Frogs will take a few weeks to adjust to a new enclosure but by now I would have thought they'd be feeding well. For the one that is underweight, tong feed a pinkie mouse dipped in calcium or some supplemented superworms, these are high in fat and can be used for bulking up. Are there any signs of nutritional disorders that be causing a frog
    not too eat? Any runny faeces which would suggest parasites?
    I'm considering getting a new Terrarium already as I'm not too happy with the one that came with them, very awkward to work with as the light is inside a cage screwed to the inside of the tank, I just feel like it takes up too much room.

    I haven't spotted any dodgy faeces but I'll have a proper look when I get back home tonight, I'll also pick up a couple of pinky mice over the weekend for him to try. I also saw somebody post about Honey baths on another thread, is this something you've tried? Is it something you could vouch for?

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    Default Re: White's tree frog won't eat!

    Quote Originally Posted by monster View Post
    From reading the end of your post stating that you have tried to contact the previous owner with no results I would say its a safe bet to say the frog was ill before you got it. This could be why he was getting rid of them.

    Yeah I was suspicious of this myself, she seemed fairly trustworthy when I met her to pick them up. Had a full reptile room and everything, just said she didn't have the room to look after, seemed fairly gutted to be letting go of them but I still think it's odd they she wouldnt get back to me.

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    Default Re: White's tree frog won't eat!

    I would get an Exo Terra or go to DMS vivaria but ask dale for good ventilation. You definitely don't want any lights inside the tank unless it's fluorescent but you'll also need a heat lamp.

    The honey baths are used to help impacted or constipated frogs, although water itself is enough to work. So not really any use unless your frogs not going to the toilet

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    Default Re: White's tree frog won't eat!

    Just an update

    I've put moss in the tank which has rasied the humidity to an average of about 55-65% during the day and 45-50% at night.
    I bought super worms and tried those but no dice unfortunately, he just seems totally unphased by the worms or hoppers, even when I try at night with all the lights off so he's more active.

    The girl on the other hand is totaly fine, although I haven't really been seeing any poops at all. How often do they go?

    Feel like it might be a case of warming them up to being handled more so they arent afraid of tongs and fingers, I'm guessing that will just develop over time though?
    They're already 2 years old and I don't think the previous owner really handled them in any way at all.
    I'm aware they're generally supposed to be left alone, but just to get them relatively used to people.

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    Default Re: White's tree frog won't eat!

    It's better for the humidity to rise at night rather than fall, I would spray the tank before lights off

    I'm surprised that the frog is turning down superworms, it's basically junk food to them and something that they'd enjoy. Expect to see poops at least once a week and preferably more often

    Have you been handeling the frog just now or fiddling about? This can prolong the adjustment period. Whites can eventually be handled frequently once they've settled down

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    Default Re: White's tree frog won't eat!

    Quote Originally Posted by jasonm96 View Post
    It's better for the humidity to rise at night rather than fall, I would spray the tank before lights off

    I'm surprised that the frog is turning down superworms, it's basically junk food to them and something that they'd enjoy. Expect to see poops at least once a week and preferably more often

    Have you been handeling the frog just now or fiddling about? This can prolong the adjustment period. Whites can eventually be handled frequently once they've settled down
    I'll keep an eye on whether it rises or falls at night for sure.

    I have been fiddling about, I've tried to seperate them a couple times while I try to feed them, and I put them in a seperate tank while I laid the moss out over the weekend.
    Perhaps I just have to be patient, I definitely havent spotted any poops I don't think, which is quite concerning

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    Default Re: White's tree frog won't eat!

    Yeah sometimes it best to be patient with frogs even though waiting is annoying. You could try keeping the humidity at the lower end at 60-70% and see if the extra moisture helps make them go

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