Originally Posted by
jasonm96
Hi
Always provide good ventilation and just mist a few times a week for temporary increases to 70%, it should be 50-60% the majority of the time. They should have a basking area of at least 30C from a heat lamp and the background should be a few degrees cooler. Calcium should be used every time an insect with a bad Ca:P ratio like locusts, roaches, superworms or crickets are used unless you feed the insects on a high-calcium diet. vitamin D3 and A should be limited to weekly depending on supplements used and their intended use. Most believe that UVB is a much safer way to provide vitamin D3 to whites tree frogs. Still a good idea to use some preformed D3 and A occasionally, though. Keep lights on for 12-14 hours a day for a photoperiod.
Frogs will take a few weeks to adjust to a new enclosure but by now I would have thought they'd be feeding well. For the one that is underweight, tong feed a pinkie mouse dipped in calcium or some supplemented superworms, these are high in fat and can be used for bulking up. Are there any signs of nutritional disorders that be causing a frog
not too eat? Any runny faeces which would suggest parasites?