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Thread: Myth?

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    Default Myth?

    Hi all

    I have read so many care sheets or books that state fire bellied toads will get heat stressed at temperatures above 80F but my toads seem to be quite content, have a look. They are yellow-bellied toads and the temps at the basking site were 84.6F when this pic was taken, it's usually slightly less and water temps at 75F. they feed well, are very active, males constantly try it on with other toads and they regularly bask.


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    Default Re: Myth?

    Looks like they dig that basking site. During summer my tank temps get above 80 at times and I stress over it. My water temp stays around 75 without a heater so I know they can cool off but it still makes me worry.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

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    Default Re: Myth?

    It does! There in a 20-gallon tank so they can escape it if they want to but There's six of them and sometimes all of them will cluster ontop of each other under the bulb but they dart away sometimes when I approach. The basking spot usually it stays between 78-82F. It might be if the water rises to 80F or higher then they may get stressed because they can't then cool off

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    Default Re: Myth?

    Still basking at a temperature of 82.9F, which is very interesting. Other three are hiding, though. The water area is most of the set up and was around 72F when this picture was taken:


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    Default Re: Myth?

    I have had my firebellies for 6 years now and they have never had a basking area, I got them as tadpoles. Our temps change spring/summer/fall/winter and they are in the basement, I just have a heater in their water. These toads seem to do well in all sorts of setups.

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    Default Re: Myth?

    It is impressive how adaptable they actually are. Do you provide any sort of lighting? Even a fluorescent can unintentionally provide a warmer area in the tank

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    Default Re: Myth?

    I don't think the care sheets are misstating anything about the preferred temps. From what's been posted, you are talking about the temp in the basking area. It appears in all cases your FBT's have the ability to seek other temps when they choose. Might be a different story if every part of your viv was at elevated temps, though the 84.6°F vs 80°F is not really significant enough to debate about, IMO.

    What's happening is not unlike us as humans wanting to go lay on the beach in 95°F (35°C) to 100°F (38°C) temps or even get in a sauna that might be 180°F (82°C) or better. Our "care sheets" for humans would probably say we like it between 59 °F (15 °C) and 77 °F (25 °C )

    And what's more, we don't know if it's the temp that they are preferring or does instinct tell them that they will benefit from vitamin D synthesis if they lay there and therefore they put up with the higher temp. Similarly we put up with the higher beach temps to get that great sun tan....... or did before they scared us to death about skin cancer <<grin>>

  9. This member thanks privet01 for this post:


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    Default Re: Myth?

    Thanks for this great reply

    I'm not critising the temps recommended in care sheets or books, but do find this to be interesting and conflicting, as they did say that temps over 80F would cause stress but did not specify if this was anywhere or overall, but your point about the D3 from UVB is a good point, but the tube runs the entire length of tank, so the fact they chose to bask exacts under the lamp may go against this, as at least some amphibians have been known to see the UV gradients. you may be spot on with the fact that if the entire enclosure rises to that then may it be a problem, but this is something I was unsure about, but was considering. Some did say to provide a basking spot, though, and some don't, which is what makes me confused. I would definitely not go to the beach at that temp though, I'm tanned enough, but Scottish so I'm a weakling to heat, which makes us humans very different towards temperatures, as amphibians are in different locations. Truth is, it's not really a debate, but i'm looking for different opinions/advice, as I want to provide the best for these guys and also want to show people what experience I have had and see what others have, but this is Bombina variegata, not orientalis which may be different
    Last edited by jasonm96; June 19th, 2016 at 03:27 PM.

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    Default Re: Myth?

    I use only one linear T8 tube for light in my 10gal (3.8L) tank. Like your's it is almost the length of the tank. With the room temperature currently running about 74F, the water in the tank is showing 72F and the rock they bask on about 75F. The the moss substrate stays the coolest at about 68F. My two B. orientalis, seem to spend the majority of their time in 1 to 2 inch deep water. The remaining time they seem to divide up evenly between the rock and laying on the moister part of the substrate by the waters edge. They also seem spend as much time out of the light in their little hideouts/caves, as they do in the light irregardless of whether they are on the dry or in the water.

    If I had a bigger tank, I'd probably add a more intense basking light as well as increase the overall lighting. However I think in the small tank they are content with temps as they are. Even in the winter months when the viv temps run about 65F they show little slow down in activity. Another down side to higher overall temps I have not seen mentioned elsewhere, is that decay/rotting of wet substrate and other organic material will be quicker as well as mold and mildew issues potentially may increase.

    And to add another side note on the lighting. I let my previous bulb get too old and didn't realize how dim it was actually getting. When I replaced it I noticed that both my FBT's seemed to green up more on top and overall appeared healthier looking. Though I admit I have no expertise to truly judge their health. I think I probably ned to get in the habit of replacing the bulb every six months.

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    Default Re: Myth?

    Sounds like a good system What tubes you using? If you go for European made lamps, they can sometimes last longer. I like zoomeds reptisuns. I agree, they definitely do better with bright lighting on them imo. I remember when I first got oriental fire-bellied toads when I first started and the guy at the pet shop told me that they should be kept without light as they'll shun it, but we all know how pet shop staff can be.

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    Default Re: Myth?

    The bulb is a GE F15T8 SP35. Since it's not sold as a specialty bulb it doesn't cost much. GE publishes the wavelength spectrum for the different phosphor coatings used in their bulbs. This one as well as several others put out into the UV spectrum and the output graph seems to match very well with the higher cost specialty bulbs sold for UV.

    It's the last four alphanumerics in the bulb code that tell you the phosphor type in GE's linear fluorescent tubes. SP35 in the case of the bulb I'm using. You can find GE bulbs in other sizes that use this same phosphor coating.

    Though I will admit the cost of specialty UV bulbs for amphibians has come down, but still it goads me to pay extra just because they put a picture of an amphibian on the box. As far as I know fluorescent bulbs naturally produce a lot of UV. Its the type of phosphor coating used that determines how much UV escapes. Some allow none to get out and convert it all to visible light.

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    Default Re: Myth?

    The thing is though, reptile lamps are not normal lamps and they command a higher price for a reason. They are tweaked to be safe and produce suitable UV levels for reptiles and amphibians, with different lamps for species or distance from animal. Household lamps are designed to just produce light for us and could be dangerous long term to herps

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    Default Re: Myth?

    Well I looked at the graphs of wavelengths output by the GE bulbs and compared them to the few graphs I could find for the reptile bulbs. I'm convinced there is not much difference. Especially in the lower cost reptile bulbs. The Sun puts out quite a bit more light in more wavelengths than fluorescent lights do. So I can't see them as dangerous.

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