I'm sorry, but i must have read and re-read this article twenty times, and did not see anything about these frogs absolutely needing uv exposure. Nor did
I see anything to indicate that you should not release morphling frogs into the wild
Hey That was cool! Thanks again for the link lesson. I posted the DR. FRANK link. Sweet! Frog Momma
I'm sorry, but i must have read and re-read this article twenty times, and did not see anything about these frogs absolutely needing uv exposure. Nor did
I see anything to indicate that you should not release morphling frogs into the wild
Litoria caerulea 1.1.0 (White's Tree Frog)
Lampropeltis triangulum hondurensis 0.1.0 (Anerythristic Honduran Milk Snake) Tliltocatl albopilosus 0.0.2 (Curly Hair Tarantula)
Aphonopelma hentzi 0.0.1 (Texas Brown Tarantula)
Avicularia avicularia 0.0.2 (Pinktoe Tarantula)
Brachypelma smithi ex. annitha 0.0.1 (Mexican Giant Red Knee Tarantula) Monocentropus balfouri 0.0.2 (Socotra Island Blue Baboon Tarantula)
Harpactira pulchripes 0.0.1 (Golden Blue Leg Baboon Tarantula)
Remember to take care of the enclosure and it will take care of your frog !
There are certain frogs that CAN benefit from UV and ubv rays. But mind you that these frogs are NOT nocturnal frogs. When frogs are nocturnal they don't get normal exposure to sun that a diurnal frog would get being in the sun all out part of the day. And the vitamin and supplement problem, vitamins and supplements are essential for any animal including frogs. Please consider how you respond to this post before you answer as it can offend people.
0.1.0 Psuedacris regilla
0.1.0 Pseudacris regilla (r.i.p. Green Beauty)
0.0.1 Bufo boreas boreas? (r.i.p. )
0.0.4 Dendrobates tinctorius 'Powder Blue'
Franks post simply says that he has a wider variety of breeding results when they are exposed to NATURAL sun light, not that they benefit from it. And again, these frogs are diurnal frogs not nocturnal frogs.
0.1.0 Psuedacris regilla
0.1.0 Pseudacris regilla (r.i.p. Green Beauty)
0.0.1 Bufo boreas boreas? (r.i.p. )
0.0.4 Dendrobates tinctorius 'Powder Blue'
Thanks for posting that link. An interesting read and an interesting blog.
Here is the only part I found that discusses Grey Treefrogs.
This supports my own intuitive sense that keeping them at ambient room temp with no extra heating is probably healthiest for them. This discussion also influenced me to look up the average high and low temps for the area where we live. Apparently the average nightly low here during the warmest month of the year is 61F.Temperate zone frogs and toads, including Fire-bellied Toads, American Bullfrogs, Gray Treefrogs and Leopard Frogs remain active and feeding at normal to low (i.e. 55 F) room temperatures. The change from summer highs seems to do them good, and in some cases (i.e. Fire-bellied Toads), may also stimulate breeding behavior.
I have been using full spectrum lighting for my tads/froglets/young frogs. When the tads were in the pond, I noticed that they liked to hang out near the surface in the sunlight, so I figured it was probably good for them. The lighting was set up in a pretty crazy, ad hoc fashion during the time when I had 5 tanks full of froglets. I even had a full spectrum light used for treating wintertime depression thrown in the mix.
I don't think that there's necessarily any single absolute right way of doing these guys. I think we all go through a certain amount of trial and error, and settle on things that seem to work well for our animals, while also drawing on the experiences of others who have kept the same animals. It sounds like even Dr. Frank has operated in that way over the course of his career.
I will be writing up my own intro post, with the whole sordid saga of my tadpoles, and how I ended up with them, and raising them indoors, soon. I've been enjoying reading your own account. I do think that all of us here are believers in Grey Treefrogs and their needs. We wouldn't be here otherwise. We all just have a variety of different approaches.
The lighting is making them morph more quickly.
But it's not the lights... it's the warmth.
Simple as that.
These tads? Tads in mid November?
Have they been positively identified as
Gray Treefrog - Hyla versicolor
or
Cope's Gray Treefrog (Hyla chrysoscelis)
Both of these species have a breeding season that peaks in late spring.
Could you post some photos. I would love to see them
I agree --- they should be released... as Amy mentioned "on a nice warm day"
into a small body of water.... ie a small pond or even a swamp
Current Collection
Dendrobates leucomelas - standard morph
Dendrobates auratus “Costa Rican Green Black"
Dendrobates auratus "Pena Blanca"
Dendrobates tinctorius “New River”
Dendrobates tinctorius "Green Sipaliwini"
Dendrobates tinctorius “Powder Blue"
Dendrobates tinctorius "French Guiana Dwarf Cobalt"
Phyllobates terribilis “Mint”
Phyllobates terribilis "Orange"
Phyllobates bicolor "Uraba"
Oophaga pumilio "Black Jeans"
Oophaga pumilio "Isla Popa"
Oophaga pumilio "Bastimentos"
Oophaga pumilio “Mimbitimbi”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Colubre"
Oophaga pumilio "Red Frog Beach”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Branco"
Oophaga pumilio “Valle del Rey”
Oophaga pumilio "BriBri"
Oophaga pumilio "El Dorado"
Oophaga pumilio "Cristobal"
Oophaga pumilio "Rambala"
Oophaga “Vicentei” (blue)
Oophaga sylvatica "Paru"
Oophaga sylvatica "Pata Blanca"
Oophaga histrionica “Redhead”
Oophaga histrionica "Blue"
Oophaga lehmanni "Red"
Oophaga histrionica "Tado"
Ranitomeya variabilis "Southern"
Ranitomeya imitator "Varadero"
Ranitomeya sirensis "Lower Ucayali"
Ranitomeya vanzolinii
http://www.fernsfrogs.com
https://www.facebook.com/ferns.frogs
I am glad you decided to try and save the tadpoles. They really are important. You seem to be learning, you can culture more flies at home to save money and avoid trips. You just have to have the right media or food, wood wool (aka Excelsior) and the right containers. you can order this all from Josh's Frogs though the wood wool is cheaper at the craft store. I have to culture my own because I am allergic to the stuff in commercial media and I save money. I make cultures every 2 weeks from the boom of the last culture I made. You don't want to culture less often or you will have too few or too old flies and the culture will fail. Next time I make my media I will make a video of it to post on YouTube and share in a thread I started. I don't use potatoes in mine so it is not already on YouTube done by someone else.
Oh. one important thing. You will want to test one frog in each grow out tank for Chytrid fungus and Ranavirus before you release any into the wild. These diseases are killing wild populations and if your frogs have either they will have to be treated before being released. These disease can be food born so anything you feed them might give it to the whole tank.
I can not be positive ....but, I don't believe either grey tree frog species is associated w/ or have been related to diseases such as those caused by chytrid fungi or ranaviruses.
It is highly unlikely you will have to test any of them. The more quickly you release them the better. Keep in mind ...each adult frog will need 10 gallons or more of space to house properly!
The best way to get accurate information regarding this is to call you local conservation. ( link below )
They will also be able to assist you in the proper way and area in which to release them.
I have followed, very closely, the conservation and protection of the Gray Tree Frog - Hyla versicolor in the Catskills (NY). I have personally had NY state conservation on our property in the Catskills where they breed is a bog area there. This species, in fact any species, should not be removed from it's natural habitat! In my life, I have held 1000s of froglets ( in July - Aug) I have witnessed 1000s of tads in late spring. They are so plentiful I have to be careful where I walk on the bank of the boggy area when are making their way from the water. Please be aware of what an important species they are to the US. They are our little chameleons !
Nothing has taught me more about how impossible it is to replicate a captive bred frog's diet then knowing intimately the choices of feeders these little jewels have to choose from in their natural habitat.
Home - Natural Resources Foundation of Wisconsin
Current Collection
Dendrobates leucomelas - standard morph
Dendrobates auratus “Costa Rican Green Black"
Dendrobates auratus "Pena Blanca"
Dendrobates tinctorius “New River”
Dendrobates tinctorius "Green Sipaliwini"
Dendrobates tinctorius “Powder Blue"
Dendrobates tinctorius "French Guiana Dwarf Cobalt"
Phyllobates terribilis “Mint”
Phyllobates terribilis "Orange"
Phyllobates bicolor "Uraba"
Oophaga pumilio "Black Jeans"
Oophaga pumilio "Isla Popa"
Oophaga pumilio "Bastimentos"
Oophaga pumilio “Mimbitimbi”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Colubre"
Oophaga pumilio "Red Frog Beach”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Branco"
Oophaga pumilio “Valle del Rey”
Oophaga pumilio "BriBri"
Oophaga pumilio "El Dorado"
Oophaga pumilio "Cristobal"
Oophaga pumilio "Rambala"
Oophaga “Vicentei” (blue)
Oophaga sylvatica "Paru"
Oophaga sylvatica "Pata Blanca"
Oophaga histrionica “Redhead”
Oophaga histrionica "Blue"
Oophaga lehmanni "Red"
Oophaga histrionica "Tado"
Ranitomeya variabilis "Southern"
Ranitomeya imitator "Varadero"
Ranitomeya sirensis "Lower Ucayali"
Ranitomeya vanzolinii
http://www.fernsfrogs.com
https://www.facebook.com/ferns.frogs
Yes thats the post. Thanks
Those are not diseases that I'm talking about. It is a bone density syndrome cause by insufficient UVB exposure in captive amphibians. I'm going to find the source and post it as soon as I can track it down again. You may have held a thousand frogletts in the wild ,but I'm raising them here in my house in WI. The temps are now 30-40 in day. NO BUGS- NO FOOD -dead frogletts. No way would I let them freeze out there now. As I said I spoke to the Zoology dept. at my University of WI and the researcher was a genetic specialist.. He said DO NOT release them this late in ( Sept) because they will not have had enough time to put on enough fat stores to hibernate successfully at least not here in WI. Maybe where you live but not here. Of course I'm aware of how important this species is! Why do you think I'm doing everything I can to assure their survival until I can release them this spring 2015. Well, gotta go buy my babies some pinheads and more fruit flies and some CA powder. It's an 80 mile round trip for me and I'm not working yet because I just finished Chemo therapy so this is a chore for me. However it is my duty to save these little cuties!! Don't worry they are thriving amazingly. By the way these will not be fully grown for well over a year or more. My wild Greys out by my swim spa are huge. So these little guys I have will not need 10 gallons per frog. If you want to buy me a bigger Exo Terra tank please feel free to donate it. Thanks for your input though. Frog Momma
Betsy, everytime someone says that they have had years of experience with these amphibians you just negate it immediately. 4 Weeks of research and some experience does not negate 4+ years of experience and research. I would not release them unless you do it now since they will be so used up life in captivity, that they won't have any real hunting experience. They will need 10 gallons per frog minimum when they are adults, no matter what the size. Just because poison dart frogs are small should you put them in a 5 gallon tank? No, because size isn't always everything.
0.1.0 Psuedacris regilla
0.1.0 Pseudacris regilla (r.i.p. Green Beauty)
0.0.1 Bufo boreas boreas? (r.i.p. )
0.0.4 Dendrobates tinctorius 'Powder Blue'
Betsy, im very supriprised nobody warned you yet. Consider this as your warning.
this forum is intended for sharing information, helping frogs and their owners. It is family friendly forum, therefore proper rules of communication apply.
You have a statement - get ready to prove it, providing scientific proof if asked. That is how we operate here, sharing and collecting information that will help develop the hobby as well as conservation efforts. Saying you have been doing research for 3 weeks, without providing scientific proof in a form you did is not okay. You came to get help, yet you don't respect people who are helping you. We all care here for frogs and wanting only the best for them, your behaviour is not helping it. Nobody knows everything and we always welcome every bit of proven information we can get, however we are not welcome what this thread has become.
I very strongly suggest you review our forum rules and terms of use before posting further. Frog Forum - FrogForum Terms of Use (Rules)
you have violated lot of them already. As I said earlier consider this as your warning.
Save one animal and it doesn't change the world, but it surely changes the world for that one animal!
it was my understanding that only certain African species are naturally immune to Chytrid, but you are right. She should ask her local conservation group about what diseases she should or should not test for as they would know better than most of us. Because they will only have a chance in the wild if they are tested and treated for the right things for their species. She should also know to plan on at least 10 gallons for each frog she keeps as a pet.
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