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Foggers! Easily add a prehistoric mist to your cage using an ultrasonic fogger - this ZooMed ReptiFogger can be extended to use on any cage, and does not need to be placed in the cage or in a water bowl to work!
At $49.99 each, ZooMed ReptiFoggers are also one of the most affordable ways to add a fogging system to your set up. Easily increase humidity and moisture with just the turn of a dial - or even plug it in to a timer for the easiest possible cage maintenance!
Click here for the ReptiFogger, or click here to see our full listing of available foggers, misting systems, and other humidity aids.
LLLReptile and Supply Co, Inc - Your one stop herp shops!
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LLLReptile and Supply Co, Inc - Your one stop herp shops!
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Do these have minimum humidity settings? The humidity levels in our entire apartment bottomed out last winter and it was sometimes only 20-30%, which sucked for dry eyes and mucous membranes on humans (didn't have frogs back then). I'm worried the same thing will happen this year, it's already as low as 40% humidity and I'm having to mist my new WTFs more frequently, but White's like the humidity about 50-60% and shouldn't be kept higher then 70-80% for any length of time, when not breeding them, so want to make sure it doesn't get too high.
Mom to these fine frogs!
4.4.0 White's tree frogs (Litoria caerulea): Sir Honey Lime, Bok & Choi, Martha, Shirley, Leapin' Loo and Ping & Pong; 0.2.1 Amazon Milk Frogs (Trachycephalus resinifictrix): Otto & Echo and Pip-Squeak aka Tiny
2.0.0 South American Bird Poo Frogs (Hyla marmorata): Ribbit & Rupert
These specific foggers have a dial on them where you can turn the fog up or down. So you can adjust the amount, but it does not work like a thermomstat that sets it for an exact humidity. You could add the Zoo Med Hygrotherm, and that will control this fogger based on the humidity level. You can find that at our website too
LLLReptile and Supply Co, Inc - Your one stop herp shops!
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Why don't you offer a package deal of a zoomed repute-fogger and a Hygrotherm HT-10 controller. Since you shouldn't have one with out the other.
Why shouldn't you have one without the other? Many people use the ZM fogger (or other foggers) for either looks, or just adding some humidity, but don't need to be super specific. While it is nice to have the Hygrotherm, it is definitely not necessary. There is a dial on the ZM Fogger, so you can manually adjust them. If you have a humidity gauge in your terrarium, you can adjust based on that reading. It is definitely not necessary to have the Hygrotherm.
LLLReptile and Supply Co, Inc - Your one stop herp shops!
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Would the foggers work in a room vs a tank? I have African violets in my frog room (well actually frogs in my African violet room, lol) and they need more humidity than I'm getting from open bowls of water. I just don't want to much moisture that it collects on the walls, 50-60% is plenty.
Mom to these fine frogs!
4.4.0 White's tree frogs (Litoria caerulea): Sir Honey Lime, Bok & Choi, Martha, Shirley, Leapin' Loo and Ping & Pong; 0.2.1 Amazon Milk Frogs (Trachycephalus resinifictrix): Otto & Echo and Pip-Squeak aka Tiny
2.0.0 South American Bird Poo Frogs (Hyla marmorata): Ribbit & Rupert
LLLReptile and Supply Co, Inc - Your one stop herp shops!
"Like" us on Facebook for coupons, sales, and updates! - http://www.facebook.com/LLLReptile
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http://list.lllreptile.com/?p=subscribe&id=1
I guess the control freak in me really likes it that I can set it up and not have to fiddle with a adjustment depending on conditions in the room that changes due to a lot of
variables like seasonal weather changes. Someone talking a shower, Someone boiling a pot of water for pasta.
I also like the HT-10 will control temperature also and do a automatic night time temperature drop.
I guess it is the little things.
LLLReptile is 100% on the spot on this.
Just remember to use distilled water as much as you can or the dissolved solids will foul up both the zoomed and the larger room model.
Thanks guys!
Mom to these fine frogs!
4.4.0 White's tree frogs (Litoria caerulea): Sir Honey Lime, Bok & Choi, Martha, Shirley, Leapin' Loo and Ping & Pong; 0.2.1 Amazon Milk Frogs (Trachycephalus resinifictrix): Otto & Echo and Pip-Squeak aka Tiny
2.0.0 South American Bird Poo Frogs (Hyla marmorata): Ribbit & Rupert
One more question, how would these foggers work with Reptariums?? Was thinking about putting my 29 gal tank into one of the large Reptariums and having taller plants growing up to the top Reptariums and Reptarium Accessories
Mom to these fine frogs!
4.4.0 White's tree frogs (Litoria caerulea): Sir Honey Lime, Bok & Choi, Martha, Shirley, Leapin' Loo and Ping & Pong; 0.2.1 Amazon Milk Frogs (Trachycephalus resinifictrix): Otto & Echo and Pip-Squeak aka Tiny
2.0.0 South American Bird Poo Frogs (Hyla marmorata): Ribbit & Rupert
Again I really love the combination of the Zoomed repti-fogger and the hygrotherm HT-10.
As you can program the humidity set point.
I would also say that the setup of the fogger is critical as is the placement of the temperature-hygrometer sensor of the HT-10
The best way to set up the fogger is very similar to how it looks on the front of the box in the picture.
With the exception of the angle of the output hose, the first 90° bend needs to be lower than the end of the output tube.
So that and condensation of water inside of the output tube will drip back into the fogger and not into the enclosure.
This will give you the best performance and water use efficiency and not drip water into the enclosure.
Now on the setup of the HT-10.
Placement of the control head and temperature-hygrometer sensor is critical.
You want to place it where you want the warmest area to be.
And not where it can get wet, as this will cause an error. and the sensor will have to be removed and dried out completely
before it will operate properly and if the water was dirty it may permanently damage the sensor.
So you don't want to place it near a water feature or a emitter of a misting system.
also you don't want to place it near a heat source, As it will cause short cycling of the heat system and
the heat will not be effective for the entire enclosure.
I have found that the halfway point on the side or back of the enclosure is optimal. For tree dwelling frogs
For ground dwelling frogs place the sensor closer to the bottom of the enclosure is better.
Now for the placement of the control head of the HT-10.
As it has a light sensor to control the night time temperature shift (1°F to 15°F from set Point)
The controller does not have a internal clock. :-(
So you have to place the control head facing the visible light source for the enclosure.
That posed a little problem for my pac man frog enclosure as it does not have a light at all.
I have a aquarium next to his enclosure and its light is on a 12 hr schedule on a timer.
So I made a little one white LED light that will plug into the timer of the aquarium
and I hot glued it to the front of the control head where the light sensor is
so the HT-10 would go into night mode when the aquarium lights go out.
And go back into day mode when the lights turned back on.
Hope this helps.
I know I haven't been around a lot on the forum lately
but I am the resident systems control engineer.
Just like Bill (deranged chipmunk) is the resident expert on enclosures of all types. (I'm not worthy of his greatness.) LOL
But if you ever need any "life support system" advice I will be glad to help.
Feel free to PM me.
BTW the HT-10 can control larger foggers as long as they are ultrasonic and not heated or the older style of motorized type.
And you place the sensor in the area correctly.
Do you have to make a hole in the lid in order to use it? I have a 36x18x24 exo terra terrarium. Will the fog stay in the bottom of the terrarium?
No you just need to bend the output tube downward so it is flush with the top screen and the fog will go though the screen just fine.
No need to cut. if you want you can use a little dab of hot glue to secure it to the screen.
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