New White's Tree Frog Setup Question

[newrkv]

Hi, I am new to the forum, and new to White's Tree Frogs, so I am curious about something in particular. I have done a lot of reading up and learning about my new friends, but there is some inconsistency in some of the lighting setup that is needed for them. I have read that lights aren't needed, lights are needed, and everywhere in between. I would like to know the proper set up for White's Tree Frogs. As of right now I use a 5.0 UVB bulb during the day, and a low level Red Night Light at night. Is this ok for them? I don't want to cause them any harm, so any help is appreciated. Thank you!

[kueluck]

No special lighting is needed for UVB or UVA, but they do need a basking light with temps around 85 degrees in one spot. I use a red or black bulb for this which stays on 24/7. Wattage depends on the time of year since I need more heat of a 60 watt during the winter and a 40 watt during the summer. Hope this helps you.

[maxQ]

I also do not use and special light for my Whites Tree Frog's, I house 3 and use a heat lamp just to keep the temps around 80-85 and I use is a low wattage red bulb for viewing at night.

[deranged chipmunk]

I use led lighting and an aquarium heater to heat my white's set up.

[newrkv]

I have a 12x12x18 habitat. It has a hood directly over the habitat. The light covers the entire habitat, except of course where they can hide under branches and leaves. Is it to much to have the heat lamp directly above them? Should I place the heat lamp somewhere else, or is that ok? I also have a red night light, but which heating lamp do you guys prefer? I know, very noob questions, but I am lol

[newrkv]

I was doing some more reading. I see several sites saying different things. Recommending UVB, full spectrum, and infrared lights for different times of the day. Like I said previously, I have a 5.0 UVB light that I was told needed to be on during the day, and a 40W red light i turn on at night. Sorry for asking so much about this, I just want to make sure my frogs stay healthy and happy I also have questions about humidity levels too. I see ranges from 30% to 80% humidity needed. What is the best level, and how do you maintain those levels easily? I mist twice a day, or more as needed to keep it around 60%-70% humidity, as I was told by the store where I got them.

[kueluck]

Heat lamp is fine just above them as long as it doesn't heat up the screen top so it can burn the frog. Also I hope it's a baby because that is to small for an adult WTF, they have a 3 foot leaping span. An exercised frog is a happy healthy frog.

[newrkv]

Yep, its a baby. its the vertical zoomed habitat. 18" high. It was recommended by another site I had looked at. Is that still to small for a young tree frog?

<edit> I am going to go buy a larger terrarium so as he grows I won't have to disrupt him later on by changing his habitat. I would prefer larger anyways to give him more room anyways. Several people Ive seen say on line that the 12x12x18 isn't near big enough, but for some reason some sites say they are good. I would rather be safe than sorry and have an unhappy little fellow.

[deranged chipmunk]

I keep a pair of adults in an 18x18x24, with led lighting. They do not need uv lighting. They are probably the most adaptable frog due to their wide range of habitat. Some are from Australia, where there are lower temps and humidity levels in part of their range and some are from Indonesia, where the temps are higher as well as humidity. That is why you see such a varied range in parameters.

[GreenTree]

you have frogs now bill? Caved in now huh?

now I need to add...why didnt you update your signature with the new updates to your family

Now to the OP:

I may be completely wrong so please correct me mods If I am. I thought I read somewhere Frogs can't take in UVB through their skin. So UVB lighting is irrevant. (dont quote me on this) Which is why they need Vitamin D enriched foods. (REPTICALCIUM With D3). Im going to do some further research on this myself.

REFERENCE: WIKIPEDIA
Vitamin D . In humans, the most important compounds in this group are vitamin D₃ (also known as cholecalciferol) Cholecalciferol and ergocalciferol can be ingested from the diet and from supplements.The body can also synthesize vitamin D (specifically cholecalciferol) in the skin, from cholesterol, when sun exposure is adequate (hence its nickname, the "sunshine vitamin").



-GreenTree

[deranged chipmunk]

Oh, I got my frogs back in October and keep forgetting my signature lol

[GreenTree]

MEDICAL REFERENCE OF UVB and VITAMIN D3 in amphibians

There... that sums it all up. =)

[Mentat]

I was doing some more reading. I see several sites saying different things. Recommending UVB, full spectrum, and infrared lights for different times of the day. Like I said previously, I have a 5.0 UVB light that I was told needed to be on during the day, and a 40W red light i turn on at night. Sorry for asking so much about this, I just want to make sure my frogs stay healthy and happy I also have questions about humidity levels too. I see ranges from 30% to 80% humidity needed. What is the best level, and how do you maintain those levels easily? I mist twice a day, or more as needed to keep it around 60%-70% humidity, as I was told by the store where I got them.

It is the way of the world, that people will write what they want in the internet (or post videos); even if it's incorrect. Frogs do not metabolize UVB light like reptiles do. Like most tree frogs, White's need ventilation more then humidity. They naturally live in a well ventilated tree canopy and 50-65% humidity is OK. White's do need that 85F basking spot.

Keeping a grown White's in a 12x12x18 enclosure is akin to keeping a lion in one of those jail like cages . If cared for well, your baby will grow fast, so recommend start budgeting for the new enclosure soon.

[deranged chipmunk]

They naturally live in a well ventilated tree canopy and 50-65% humidity is OK.

.

Actually, this is only partly true. Unlike red eyes and some species of darts, white's are not primarily canopy dwellers. They are somewhat akin to green tree frogs, Cuban tree frogs and grey tree frogs and can be found at ground levels as well, where humidity levels rise. This is yet another reason why their care sheets are so varied. We hear "tree frog" and think high in the canopy, but sometimes it's not necessarily so, which is why there is no one "right way" to keep them.

[kueluck]

My 2 cents......my WTF, AGTF & Copes GTF all hang out high, as high as they can get. Only exception to this is my female WTF will occasionally hang out lower on the drift wood in the back.

[GreenTree]

When I had whites tree frogs, they used every bit of high space they could. I had mine in a 36x18x36. Now there is NO CANOPY in a tank. Maybe a ZOO, but not a tank. So the bigger the better when it comes to tank size with whites tree frogs NO DOUBT. Heck even a 36x18x36 is not even sufficent when you break it down to what they do in the wild. SO... I love how you gentlemen compare tank sizes when they are inches off but in the wild they are MANY FEET higher.

[deranged chipmunk]

Agreed, if given the room, they will use the room. Just like a human would use more room if they went from a 750 sq ft house to a 2500 sq ft house. I have even seen white's kept by a herpetologist that have lived for a decade on floating logs in a 20h filled 2/3 with water. No substrate, no branches.

Now, my white's have no preference to being at the too of the tank. They hang out mid height, high, low, on the substrate, in the water. Shoot, my male goes for a nightly swim every evening. Not a soak, a swim.

Now, with that said, I was not debating anything other than they live exclusively in the canopy. Because that is far from the truth.

And I agree with GT, we're talking inches here, as far as tank height goes. Would a frog like an extra four inches of height? Sure they would, but it's not going to be the demise of the frog if they are in a slightly shorter tank. I try to approach all aspects of the nature hobbies I am involved in as abstract, there is never one way to do things.

[newrkv]

I went ahead and bought the 18x18x24 Exo-Terra Terrarium. I thought it was the appropriate and responsible thing to do. I have attached some pics to this reply.

As for the lighting, no UVB light is needed at all? Meaning no daytime light is necessary, only a light for their basking spot? I think we have the humidity figured out and keep it around where it needs to be now since it is in range from 50-65%, mentioned by Carlos. What is the best light to use? Suggestions? I will get whatever is needed!

[GreenTree]

No uvb is needed...frogs cant absorb uvb through their skin so they get there needed vitamin d through calcium dust with D3 which I hope your applying.

Any reptiglow bulb is sufficient. No special lights are required.

[newrkv]

ok, great! brings up another question. as of right now, I have a reptile bulb, but the tank isn't getting above 72F. should I get another light or put a heating pad somewhere on the outside of the terrarium? or should I invest in another lamp and bulb and put it on the side?

I guess the easier way to put it is, should I put a basking light on the side, or just a heating pad to keep the temp up.