I just bought and set a Repti-Fogger for my Pacman's terrarium. To me, it is better than a spray bottle to maintain moisture. Have anybody here used this machine? What was your experience?
Thanks in advance!
Yes i use one myself i also use 2 infrared lights(only 25 watts each) for heat as well as a under tank heater .Do you have a automatic humidistat?I keep my humidity at around 60 percent with the reptifogger but you can turn it on and off at your leisure too .Usually when the humidity in my tank is right the ground seems 1/4 wet on the top and dry on the bottom .The heat lamps seem to help keep in the humidity and my frogs have both warm and cold areas they can go burrow into.So yeah i think reptifogger is the way to go .
I do well without one, but would like one in the future. I'm working on building my own upright, and I'll prob get one at that point. Let me know if you get one, and what your results are!
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Mine turned the bedding in the bottom of my exoterra to mud! I now use it to humidify my apartment and went back to a spray bottle.
Well There is a huge misconception of the required humidity in a pacman frogs tank and the wild .Gran Chaco (plain, South America) -- Encyclopedia Britannica the gran chaco is their native habitat for most of the store bought frog .check what the climate and humidity is there where the frogs thrive limate
With its considerable north-south extent, the Gran Chaco is subject to climates that vary from tropical in the north to warm-temperate in the south. Most of the region, however, is subtropical. Average temperatures vary from 60 to 85 °F (16 to 29 °C), with an average relative humidity between 50 and 75 percent. Great temperature contrasts exist, and the highest recorded temperatures for the continent occur in the Chaco. Average maximums are near 80 °F (27 °C), and absolute maximums may reach 116 °F (47 °C). The average minimum is about 57 °F (14 °C), although freezing winter temperatures can occur throughout the region.
The highest average annual rainfall—52 inches (1,320 millimetres)—is in the east, and precipitation gradually decreases to about 20 inches in the far west. Although the rainfall normally would be adequate for agriculture, roughly a third to half of the total comes in the hot summer. Evaporation losses sharply reduce the effective precipitation and give the Chaco an arid nature that is absent only in the permanent swamps and forests along the Paraguay River.
Although light breezes are common, outbreaks of cool polar air from the south, called pamperos in Argentina, bring thunderstorms and strong gusty winds that occasionally exceed 60 miles per hour. These air masses move northward into the Amazon basin (where they are called friagems). The windiest season, however, is spring, during the transition from warm to hot weather. Dust storms may occur in the dry season. Many experts like to keep the humidity above 75 percent but the frogs thrive at 60 percent and even 50 percent with no issue whatsoever . when they require temp regulation they go underground and if they require water you will find them in their bowl .Ideally the top of the soil(substarte ) is damp 1/4 of the depth it is the rest dry.This also discourages red leg and bacterial infections .I wash my coco husk completely and squeeze out the water then put it back in the tank 1 time a month .The humidity is around 60 percent with my retifogger. The frogs as i have noticed do not like to be continuously fogged and even go underground to avoid it .Most people don't seal the tank right to keep the humidity up and the fogger off hence you get "mud".keeping a nice infrared(placed the proper height above the tank as not to bake your frogs ) above the tank allows the humidity to warmly absorb into the soil and a under tank heater in a spot if it wished to warm and not in a spot if it wishes to cool itself.I use a common house humidistat hung in the front of the tank wired to a fan center relay to the reptifogger .i keep the top covered 3/4 with plexiglass the rest of my screen is open with the infrared above along with 2 vents one on either side to allow fresh air to circulate .I find this My ideal setup and my frogs are very happy with it .I do believe my self there is such a thing as over humidification .This is only my experienced opinion with my frogs.Alos there legs will always have a slightly red hue to them on the bottom but if you touch it and it turns white where you touch it then it is not
Redleg. Redleg does not go away when touched.
Proper setup and usage is critical for operation of these units.
Since they don't come with good setup manuals. you can easily set up one so it will not perform
correctly.
#1 place the unit on a level surface
#2 place the unit at least 10 inches below the level of the point to where you want to fog output to go.
Don't worry the hose it comes with is plenty long enough keeping to those parameters.
Always use distilled water in the unit.
the minerals in tap and bottled water will eventually build up and foul the ultrasonic emitter.
And the most important thing is to use some kind of controller or humidistat.
I recommend the zoo med hygrotherm HT-10
it has a night time temperature offset setting
This is the typical set up for the repti foger.
If you were to set up the unit above the enclosure
and have a bend in the output tube to go down to the enclosure less than 10 inches from the
output of the fogger you will get large water droplets out of the tube and not just fog.
That will cause the unit to use water at a much higher rate and turn your substrate into mud.
I just got a wooden shelf from lowe's and attached it to the stand I have the enclosure on.
this way the unit is at the perfect hight and I only get fog and very few water droplets.
Also not keeping the unit on a flat surface will cause the fan to fail prematurely.
I use one and love it. I have it set to run 15 min every 1.5hrs and works really good. I just got the zoo med thermasts and will try to hook it up to that and see how I like it. Really good unit to have.
agreed
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