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Thread: red eye tree frog help

  1. #1
    froglandfun
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    Default red eye tree frog help

    ok, two weeks ago i bought my first retf.... he died in 2 days. im pretty sure the tank was way too hot and i didnt notice until too late. so. now ive bought 2 more. i want to keep them going..... ive got a day light for visibility and some heat keeping it at 75-80f. i keep the humidity at 70-80%, water dish, large leafed fake plant in a 20 gallon upright terrarium with screen lid. i dust their crickets and feed every other day, i mist only the plants every other day to help with humidity but keep it away from the frogs to prevent infections.......

    they seem ok so far, sleeping literally all day, but i dont see them move at night either. i took away the night red bulb because it kept the tank too hot.

    i need any advice on them or any pointers, as well as ways to determine if they are doing well or not.

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  3. #2
    taramazing88
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    Default Re: red eye tree frog help

    I don't know alot about red eyed tree frogs but I know a little. I used to want one so I did alot of research lol. I know they like to have at least 78-84 degrees in their cage. Do you have a large shallow water dish? They won't swim in it but its important for the humidity aspect. Don't handle them too much it can actually make them sick and die. They are very sensitive to stressful si That was one of the reasons I opted out of getting one. They also die fairly easily so they aren't a good beginner frog if you are a begginer frog owner.
    With them, it's not just about keeping the tank a constant temperature and humidity, the tank needs a daily cycle of their humidity and temperatures.
    Like I said, I don't know a whole lot but hopefully enough to be helpful!
    Do some online research!!!! You can never know too much

  4. #3
    Moderator Mentat's Avatar
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    Default Re: red eye tree frog help

    Hello and welcome to FF! First thing to do is to read this excellent care article: Frog Forum - Red-Eyed Leaf Frog/Red Eyed Tree Frog Care - Agalychnis callidryas. Frogs should move and hunt at night if all is well and lights are out; please answer below questionnaire to try and find out any problems. Also, water in bath need be dechlorinated tap (Seachem's Prime works fine) and can use distilled (no water marks) for spraying but avoid wetting the frogs. Crickets should be same as distance between frogs eyes and food supplements like CA/D3 and vitamins are needed: http://www.frogforum.net/food-feeder...schedules.html. Good luck !

    “Trouble in the Frog Enclosure”

    The following information will be very helpful if provided when requesting assistance with either your frog or enclosure. To help with your questions, please utilize the below list and post the information in the proper forum area to get advice from FF members that keep the same frog. This will allow for little confusion and a faster more informed response.


    1. Size of enclosure
    2. # of inhabitants - specifically other frogs and size differences
    3. Humidity
    4. Temperature
    5. Water - type - for both misting and soaking dish
    6. Materials used for substrate
    7. Enclosure set up i.e. plants (live or artificial), wood, bark and other materials.
    - How were things prepared prior to being put into the viv.
    8. Main food source
    9. Vitamins and calcium? (how often)
    10. Lighting
    11. What is being used to maintain the temperature of the enclosure
    12. When is the last time he/she ate
    13. Have you found poop lately
    14. A pic would be helpful including frog and enclosure (any including cell phone pic is fine)
    15. How old is the frog
    16. How long have you owned him/her
    17. Is the frog wild caught or captive bred
    18. Frog food- how often and if it is diverse, what other feeders are used as treats
    19. How often the frog is handled
    20. Is the enclosure kept in a high or low traffic area
    21. Describe enclosure maintenance (water changes, cleaning, etc)

    by Lynn(Flybyferns) and GrifTheGreat.
    Remember to take care of the enclosure and it will take care of your frog !​

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    Super Moderator flybyferns's Avatar
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    Default Re: red eye tree frog help

    Quote Originally Posted by froglandfun View Post
    ok, two weeks ago i bought my first retf.... he died in 2 days. im pretty sure the tank was way too hot and i didnt notice until too late. so. now ive bought 2 more. i want to keep them going..... ive got a day light for visibility and some heat keeping it at 75-80f. i keep the humidity at 70-80%, water dish, large leafed fake plant in a 20 gallon upright terrarium with screen lid. i dust their crickets and feed every other day, i mist only the plants every other day to help with humidity but keep it away from the frogs to prevent infections.......

    they seem ok so far, sleeping literally all day, but i dont see them move at night either. i took away the night red bulb because it kept the tank too hot.

    i need any advice on them or any pointers, as well as ways to determine if they are doing well or not.
    Hi,
    Sounds like you are doing well! So sorry you had a terrible 1st experience

    Here are perfect parameters for your red eye tree frogs: ( there is lots of confusing information)

    Temps
    Day 78-82 ( however it is not necessary to maintain 82F) and it is best to have more than one thermometer- NOT the spiral ones that attach to the glass. I would suggest a closed probe type/positioned in the middle of the tank. When I see 80F, I back off a speck.
    Night 71-75

    Consider covering a large portion of the screen top ( with glass* or plexi). It will help maintain the humidity and keep the warmth IN
    Get yourself good monitoring instruments - make changes slowly

    I don't know where you live? Here in the northeast, it's a tough time of year for maintaining temps for the red eyes. I have to keep a an eye on things until the heat is on in the house to help moderate things. Try to prevent big swings in the temps. ie better to maintain 78 than to - have swings from 71-82


    Humidity
    70-80 is find ( should NOT be sustained grater than 80 % ) best NOT to use spiral monitors - of which are notoriously inaccurate.

    Two weeks They are still adjusting. Cover three sides of the tank to help them feel more secure.
    COMPLETE darkness at night ! This can take a long time.

    Also, consider bowl feeding them. They pick it up very quickly.
    Feed them small crickets ONLY. DO NOT ration their food -feed them well !

    What supplement are you using?
    Where did you get your frogs, ( if you don't mind I ask )?

    Don't forget to prepare for hospital tank needs:
    http://www.frogforum.net/tree-frogs/...-supplies.html
    http://www.frogforum.net/general-dis...uarantine.html

    Enjoy your newbies. Please don't hesitate to chime in... You will have lots of support here
    Best, Lynn
    Current Collection
    Dendrobates leucomelas - standard morph
    Dendrobates auratus “Costa Rican Green Black"
    Dendrobates auratus "Pena Blanca"
    Dendrobates tinctorius “New River”
    Dendrobates tinctorius "Green Sipaliwini"
    Dendrobates tinctorius “Powder Blue"
    Dendrobates tinctorius "French Guiana Dwarf Cobalt"

    Phyllobates terribilis “Mint”
    Phyllobates terribilis "Orange"
    Phyllobates bicolor "Uraba"

    Oophaga pumilio "Black Jeans"
    Oophaga pumilio "Isla Popa"
    Oophaga pumilio "Bastimentos"
    Oophaga pumilio “Mimbitimbi”
    Oophaga pumilio "Rio Colubre"
    Oophaga pumilio "Red Frog Beach”
    Oophaga pumilio "Rio Branco"
    Oophaga pumilio “Valle del Rey”
    Oophaga pumilio "BriBri"
    Oophaga pumilio "El Dorado"
    Oophaga pumilio "Cristobal"
    Oophaga pumilio "Rambala"

    Oophaga “Vicentei” (blue)

    Oophaga sylvatica "Paru"
    Oophaga sylvatica "Pata Blanca"
    Oophaga histrionica “Redhead”
    Oophaga histrionica "Blue"
    Oophaga lehmanni "Red"
    Oophaga histrionica "Tado"

    Ranitomeya variabilis "Southern"
    Ranitomeya imitator "Varadero"
    Ranitomeya sirensis "Lower Ucayali"
    Ranitomeya vanzolinii

    http://www.fernsfrogs.com
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