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  1. #1
    Traxdata
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    Default help

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Size:  71.0 KBHelp my frog is looking strange. Hes dark grey with green spots on his back. Hes fine by other standards eats well and bathes he resently lost his skinn like three days ago plz tell me if hes ok

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  3. #2
    100+ Post Member Bombina Bob's Avatar
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    Default Re: help

    Hi Traxdata, Did you ever see your whites tree frog "Yawn"? this is
    what they will do when they outgrow their old skin and they eat their
    skin through the corners of his mouth. If this was not the issue, im
    really not sure
    "A Righteous man cares for his animals" - Proverbs 12:10
    1.0.0 Correlophus cilliatus
    2.1.0 Bombina orientalis
    0.1.0 Ambystoma mexicanum
    0.0.1 Ceratophrys cranwelli
    1.0.0 Litoria caerulea
    1.1.0 Dendrobates auratus "Nicaraguan"
    0.0.2 Dendrobates tinctorius "Azureus"



  4. #3
    Traxdata
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    Yeah that was few days ago and now he has these green spots like on the pictures is it related

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  5. #4
    Moderator Mentat's Avatar
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    Default Re: help

    Those spots could be a skin irritation caused by a number of things. Please answer the following questions and also check if anyone in house is using any new chemicals (cleaners, sprays, etc.) in room where frog is. Thank you !

    “Trouble in the Frog Enclosure”

    The following information will be very helpful if provided when requesting assistance with either your frog or enclosure. To help with your questions, please utilize the below list and post the information in the proper forum area to get advice from FF members that keep the same frog. This will allow for little confusion and a faster more informed response.

    1. Size of enclosure
    2. # of inhabitants - specifically other frogs and size differences
    3. Humidity
    4. Temperature
    5. Water - type - for both misting and soaking dish
    6. Materials used for substrate
    7. Enclosure set up i.e. plants (live or artificial), wood, bark and other materials.
    - How were things prepared prior to being put into the viv.
    8. Main food source
    9. Vitamins and calcium? (how often)
    10. Lighting
    11. What is being used to maintain the temperature of the enclosure
    12. When is the last time he/she ate
    13. Have you found poop lately
    14. A pic would be helpful including frog and enclosure (any including cell phone pic is fine)
    15. How old is the frog
    16. How long have you owned him/her
    17. Is the frog wild caught or captive bred
    18. Frog food- how often and if it is diverse, what other feeders are used as treats
    19. How often the frog is handled
    20. Is the enclosure kept in a high or low traffic area
    21. Describe enclosure maintenance (water changes, cleaning, etc)

    by Lynn(Flybyferns) and GrifTheGreat.
    Remember to take care of the enclosure and it will take care of your frog !​

  6. #5
    Traxdata
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    1. Its 60l
    2. Hes the only one
    3.70-80 can drop to 40-50 while im at work
    4. 25c stable
    5.tap water i live in iceland and its crystal clean we drink it to
    6. Moss(sorry for the english but you mean the stuff on the bottom right?)
    7.ssilk plant,bark,dryed drift wood i did not prepare them
    8. Meal worms i think they are called and grasshoppers
    9.never
    10. Lighting from the room sometimes heating lamp if it gets cold
    11. Heating mats under the viv
    12.few hours
    13.never seen one and i dont know how they look:/
    14.its on the way
    15.i have no idea
    16.2-3weeks
    17.captive bred
    18.sorry dont under stand the question
    19.2times since i got him
    20. Rather high but quet at night and part day
    21water changed daily never cleaned yet

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  7. #6
    Traxdata
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    Default Re: help

    Here are the pics
    Quote Originally Posted by Traxdata View Post
    1. Its 60l
    2. Hes the only one
    3.70-80 can drop to 40-50 while im at work
    4. 25c stable
    5.tap water i live in iceland and its crystal clean we drink it to
    6. Moss(sorry for the english but you mean the stuff on the bottom right?)
    7.ssilk plant,bark,dryed drift wood i did not prepare them
    8. Meal worms i think they are called and grasshoppers
    9.never
    10. Lighting from the room sometimes heating lamp if it gets cold
    11. Heating mats under the viv
    12.few hours
    13.never seen one and i dont know how they look:/
    14.its on the way
    15.i have no idea
    16.2-3weeks
    17.captive bred
    18.sorry dont under stand the question
    19.2times since i got him
    20. Rather high but quet at night and part day
    21water changed daily never cleaned yet

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    Attached Images Attached Images   

  8. #7
    Super Moderator flybyferns's Avatar
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    Default Re: help

    Sorry ...you have a problem He is not a happy guy

    Your frog will suffer from MBD ( metabolic bone disease) if the feeders are not dusted with a calcium/vit D supplement.
    The symptoms are insidious ...the frog will be lethargic, eventually stop eating and jumping due to lack of the vitamin D and calcium. Sometimes one may even see the frog's jaw hang open and his legs looking really weak. If this has started ....it is curable..... supplements are an absolute necessity for a frog's survival in captivity. Plus, you have to consider how he was cared for ( ie vit D and Ca ) before you acquired him.

    Water : if your water is chlorinated or treated a de-chlorinater is needed asap.

    Get him off the meal worms --- they can cause an intestinal impaction ( blockage).
    If you have not found any poop in the past few days, you should be suspicious of this.
    Get him to soak in de-chlorinated water.

    If the lighter green spots do not disappear over the next few days, I wold get him to a herp vet.
    He may have parasites or an infection and will need an antibiotic and/or a topical medication to treat the spots.

    Do you have a frog first aid kit ? If so, what do you have on hand ?

    http://www.frogforum.net/tree-frogs/...-supplies.html

    Has he been up during the day?

    Is he spending a lot of time in the water?

    I would make him a hospital/quarantine tank.....clean out his tank, replace the substrate w/ very dampened paper towels ( de-chlorinated water ) , his water dish and cleaned plants. Try to get things as high up as possible in the tank for him to climb on.

    http://www.frogforum.net/general-dis...uarantine.html

    Lynn
    Current Collection
    Dendrobates leucomelas - standard morph
    Dendrobates auratus “Costa Rican Green Black"
    Dendrobates auratus "Pena Blanca"
    Dendrobates tinctorius “New River”
    Dendrobates tinctorius "Green Sipaliwini"
    Dendrobates tinctorius “Powder Blue"
    Dendrobates tinctorius "French Guiana Dwarf Cobalt"

    Phyllobates terribilis “Mint”
    Phyllobates terribilis "Orange"
    Phyllobates bicolor "Uraba"

    Oophaga pumilio "Black Jeans"
    Oophaga pumilio "Isla Popa"
    Oophaga pumilio "Bastimentos"
    Oophaga pumilio “Mimbitimbi”
    Oophaga pumilio "Rio Colubre"
    Oophaga pumilio "Red Frog Beach”
    Oophaga pumilio "Rio Branco"
    Oophaga pumilio “Valle del Rey”
    Oophaga pumilio "BriBri"
    Oophaga pumilio "El Dorado"
    Oophaga pumilio "Cristobal"
    Oophaga pumilio "Rambala"

    Oophaga “Vicentei” (blue)

    Oophaga sylvatica "Paru"
    Oophaga sylvatica "Pata Blanca"
    Oophaga histrionica “Redhead”
    Oophaga histrionica "Blue"
    Oophaga lehmanni "Red"
    Oophaga histrionica "Tado"

    Ranitomeya variabilis "Southern"
    Ranitomeya imitator "Varadero"
    Ranitomeya sirensis "Lower Ucayali"
    Ranitomeya vanzolinii

    http://www.fernsfrogs.com
    https://www.facebook.com/ferns.frogs

  9. #8
    Moderator Mentat's Avatar
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    Default Re: help

    Quote Originally Posted by Traxdata View Post
    1. Its 60l
    What is frog's lenght from snout to vent (SVL)? 60L is OK for young but a bit tight for adult. Also, your tank orientation and decor applies more to a ground frog. White's need more height (minnimum 60 cm. for adult) than floor area and branches, vines, etc. to climb.

    3.70-80 can drop to 40-50 while im at work
    Humidity should be between 50-65%. Ventilation is more important than humidity for Whites.

    4. 25c stable
    White's need 30C during day with up to a 6C drop at night. This needs correction as soon as possible.

    5.tap water i live in iceland and its crystal clean we drink it to
    Drinking crystal clear water (even when filtered) can still contain chloramines toxic to frog. Recommend use a dechlorinator like Seachem Prime.

    6. Moss(sorry for the english but you mean the stuff on the bottom right?)
    See Care Article.

    7.ssilk plant,bark,dryed drift wood i did not prepare them
    Not preparing items can introduce pathogens to enclosure.

    8. Meal worms i think they are called and grasshoppers
    Meal worms are not very nutritious and can cause impaction. Grasshoppers should be sized same as distance between frogs eyes. Normally it's good to remove the hoppers rear legs before feeding.

    9.never
    Your frog needs supplements (both CA/D3 and vitamins) or it could get very sick from lack of CA, etc. Recommend Repashy or RepCal products; but unsure if available in there. Here is a sample dusting schedule to follow: http://www.frogforum.net/food-feeder...schedules.html.

    10. Lighting from the room sometimes heating lamp if it gets cold
    See number 4. Recommend a low UVB (2-5) compact fluorescent light for basking and either a red bulb or ceramic heat emmiter to maintain heat. Might need a controller (manual rehostat or auto thermostat) to dial in necessary temps.

    11. Heating mats under the viv
    Heating mats should be affixed to enclosure side and never to bottom with frogs. Be aware that they are very inneficient as heat sources when used on side.

    18.sorry dont under stand the question
    Means what are you feeding frog as main food and as treats. See no. 8.

    19.2times since i got him

    Wash hands well and rinse with dechlorinated water before handling frog.

    20. Rather high but quet at night and part day
    Recommend you cover tank's back and sides with aquarium background or any paper you like to reduce frog's stress.

    21water changed daily never cleaned yet
    Tank should be spot cleaned daily. If you have a water substrate (appears from pics) with no filter, should do 25% water changes daily with dechlorinated water.
    I've made comments on applicable sections. Also, here is a good care article for your frog: Frog Forum - White's Tree Frog Care - Litoria caerulea . Good luck !
    Remember to take care of the enclosure and it will take care of your frog !​

  10. #9
    Traxdata
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    How do i give him the vitamines can i put it in his pool?

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  11. #10
    Traxdata
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    After takeing a closer look hes still sheding his skin can that be the couse and im ordering from amazon braches you stick on the side of the viv and a cave for him i cant get these things in iceland

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  12. #11
    Super Moderator flybyferns's Avatar
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    Default Re: help

    Hello,

    Please read
    Frog Forum - White's Tree Frog Care - Litoria caerulea

    If he is having difficulty shedding ?...........be sure the humidity level is not too low. The humidity can especially drop if you are trying to keep things warm in the cooler weather. Put additional soaking dishes in his enclosure. The hospital tank paper towel should be very wet. If you are leaving the soil it needs to be visible damp but not soggy / drippy wet. Humidity can be increased by spraying the interior of the enclosure ( not the frog) with distilled water. De-clorinated water will be fine for spraying --- but can leave water spot on the glass .........over time.


    I took a look at your post from last week:
    http://www.frogforum.net/tree-frogs/...rog-setup.html This looks warm and dry ?
    Increased frequency of shedding can occur if the frog was exposed to an irritant, on medications, or even low humidity. Consider changing the gauges to probe gauges as soon as you can. The stick on one are inaccurate! You want a gauge in the middle of the tank, not on the glass. Move it around to get a better idea of settings within the entire enclosure. ( ie directly under the light. ) Be extra careful when using any heat emitting lamp. The best way to raise the temp ( if possible , of course) is to warm the room up.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=exxo...gauge&tbm=shop


    Vitamins:

    the feeders are dusted with the vit/ca supplement

    Repashy Superfoods :: RETAIL SALES :: By Product Name :: Calcium Plus :: Calcium Plus 4 oz BAG - Repashy Ventures - Distributor Center ( comination )
    or
    Rep-Cal Supplements Calcium
    Rep-Cal Supplements

    Please read
    Improtant basic care guide for frogs :
    POLLYWOGS WORLD OF FROGS
    Current Collection
    Dendrobates leucomelas - standard morph
    Dendrobates auratus “Costa Rican Green Black"
    Dendrobates auratus "Pena Blanca"
    Dendrobates tinctorius “New River”
    Dendrobates tinctorius "Green Sipaliwini"
    Dendrobates tinctorius “Powder Blue"
    Dendrobates tinctorius "French Guiana Dwarf Cobalt"

    Phyllobates terribilis “Mint”
    Phyllobates terribilis "Orange"
    Phyllobates bicolor "Uraba"

    Oophaga pumilio "Black Jeans"
    Oophaga pumilio "Isla Popa"
    Oophaga pumilio "Bastimentos"
    Oophaga pumilio “Mimbitimbi”
    Oophaga pumilio "Rio Colubre"
    Oophaga pumilio "Red Frog Beach”
    Oophaga pumilio "Rio Branco"
    Oophaga pumilio “Valle del Rey”
    Oophaga pumilio "BriBri"
    Oophaga pumilio "El Dorado"
    Oophaga pumilio "Cristobal"
    Oophaga pumilio "Rambala"

    Oophaga “Vicentei” (blue)

    Oophaga sylvatica "Paru"
    Oophaga sylvatica "Pata Blanca"
    Oophaga histrionica “Redhead”
    Oophaga histrionica "Blue"
    Oophaga lehmanni "Red"
    Oophaga histrionica "Tado"

    Ranitomeya variabilis "Southern"
    Ranitomeya imitator "Varadero"
    Ranitomeya sirensis "Lower Ucayali"
    Ranitomeya vanzolinii

    http://www.fernsfrogs.com
    https://www.facebook.com/ferns.frogs

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