Decreasing humidity.

[Pyxiefan001]

My hygrotherm currently reads the humidity in my pyxie's exo terra is 90%, it's programmed to maintain it at 80%. I know 90% is the max humidity these frogs can stand, so how do I lower it a bit? Days temps are low 80s, and night temps mid to high 70s (following Lija/Colleen's advice, that I've recently discovered). The humidity tends to reach higher levels at night obviously from the lower temps. Ventilation is NOT restricted in any way, substrate is fresh, replaced a couple of days ago, I don't even mist the cage anymore as the fogger takes care of the humidity on its own.

Only thing I can think to do is wait until the substrate starts to dry a little (by then it could be time for a another substrate change, which I do monthly) and the humidity therefore lower itself.

[Glenn]

Can you not adjust the hydrotherm to maintain a lower humidity? Or is it permenantly set at 80%?

[Jimbok3]

If you increase the amount of ventilation (airflow) the tank gets, it should quickly lower the humidity. I wish I had your problem, my WTF terrarium is to dry (switching over to bioactive substrate and adding more plants is starting to help). Best of luck

[Pyxiefan001]

Can you not adjust the hydrotherm to maintain a lower humidity? Or is it permenantly set at 80%?

The fogger only comes on when it drops a couple of levels below 80%. I set it there b/c I thought 80% was the ideal humidity for Pyxies. And since the levels are above said setting, it won't come on otherwise.

If you increase the amount of ventilation (airflow) the tank gets, it should quickly lower the humidity. I wish I had your problem, my Whites Tree Frog terrarium is to dry (switching over to bioactive substrate and adding more plants is starting to help). Best of luck

I just said ventilation is NOT restricted in any way. What more can I do?

Lately I've been having another issue with my hygrotherm. I'd like to keep the night temp (at least under the lamp) at 78 degrees, but when I flick through the screens to check the humidity it switches itself to 77 degrees (changing the night drop from 4 degrees to 5 degrees; from 82 degrees during the day). Why does it do this? It drives me nuts. I thought it supposed to stay programmed at whatever numbers you set it too.

[Glenn]

You can ditch the fogger, and instead rely on the evaporation of the water area, the moist sub, and restricting some of the ventilation with plastic wrap to keep the humidity up.
You'll need to do some tweaking with the plastic wrap, but once you find the perfect range, it should be fairly easy to maintain.

[Pyxiefan001]

You can ditch the fogger, and instead rely on the evaporation of the water area, the moist sub, and restricting some of the ventilation with plastic wrap to keep the humidity up.
You'll need to do some tweaking with the plastic wrap, but once you find the perfect range, it should be fairly easy to maintain.

Not that I don't appreciate the advice but why would I do that NOW when I'm trying to lower the humidity at the moment? Just went up to 91-92%. Augh!

Besides I've tried the plastic wrap trick before. It just made condensation on the walls, and I know that makes the levels too high.

[Glenn]

I assumed the reason for the high humidity was because of the fogger.
I also assumed that since you are using a fogger, maybe the humidity was too low in the past, so I suggested using plastic wrap without the fogger. That's why I suggested doing that.

This makes things simple then: ditch the fogger, don't use plastic wrap.

If the humidity gets too low, cover some of the ventilation with the wrap. Keep doing it until its high enough to your likening, or remove some if it gets too high. It takes some tweaking to reach the sweet spot.

If it is still too high and the top is completely ventilated, just let it dry out a bit on its own. The frog will be fine for a while with high humidity.

Also, above all, make sure the instrument you are using to measure the humidity is reliable.

[beyond colour]

Sorry im a little confused? "The fogger only comes on when it drops a couple of levels below 80%. I set it there b/c I thought 80% was the ideal humidity for Pyxies. And since the levels are above said setting, it won't come on otherwise." You stated you set it to come on when it drops below 80%,yet at your setting it gets to humid. Are you taking the reading just after the fogger goes off? If you have it set on 80% and its to high than lower it to 70% and check your setting on that. Keep doing this until you get the desired humidity. If it doesnt come on lower than that your room may be at the proper humidity without it. Here in Dallas my frog room stays at 78% thats about the average indoor humidity for my area, Houston is even more humid than it is here and some parts of the state are lower. So depending on where you live you may have the proper humidity for your frog without using a fogger. You may just want to mist by hand every few days but keep a water dish for the frog to soak in just incase he gets to dry. Again sorry if im a little confused its 3 am i cant sleep so im reading frog forums and trying to give advice.

[Pyxiefan001]

Sorry im a little confused? "The fogger only comes on when it drops a couple of levels below 80%. I set it there b/c I thought 80% was the ideal humidity for Pyxies. And since the levels are above said setting, it won't come on otherwise." You stated you set it to come on when it drops below 80%,yet at your setting it gets to humid. Are you taking the reading just after the fogger goes off? If you have it set on 80% and its to high than lower it to 70% and check your setting on that. Keep doing this until you get the desired humidity. If it doesnt come on lower than that your room may be at the proper humidity without it. Here in Dallas my frog room stays at 78% thats about the average indoor humidity for my area, Houston is even more humid than it is here and some parts of the state are lower. So depending on where you live you may have the proper humidity for your frog without using a fogger. You may just want to mist by hand every few days but keep a water dish for the frog to soak in just incase he gets to dry. Again sorry if im a little confused its 3 am i cant sleep so im reading frog forums and trying to give advice.

I was using the screen on the hygrotherm itself to monitor the humidity. The hygrometer I got from Lowes was off by a few percent so I stopped trusting it. Need to get some other kind so I can simply look in the cage to check the humidity from now on. Anyway I figured since the fogger is set up to turn on ONLY when the humidity drops below 80% I figured it itself would serve as a reliable hygrometer. Humidity is now in the high 80s. Better but obviously above what I programed it for.

Humidity tends to go up by itself with no help from me when the temperature drops by a few degrees at night. Between the plastic idea and having no restricted ventilation, I don't know know what else to do besides just let it drop on its own by not misting or adding any more water than is needed (ie, cleaning the water basin). I'm not even gonna worry about it anymore. It never stays above 90% for too long anyway.

[Mentat]

There are various factors interacting together and resulting in final enclosure humidity level. Room humidity and temperature; enclosure heating (amount and type); and enclosure ventilation. A couple possibilities here are discussed below.

The hygrotherm is not working right (programing or sensor). If fogger is kept off during humidity spikes over set parameters (80F) then cross this one out, however if fogger comes on at readings over 80%, have unit checked out. Where is sensor located and is it being "wet" by fogger output? Any condensation on a humidity sensor will affect it's readings. Also, get a digital gauge and compare readings to hygrotherm's to ensure it's reading are accurate.

The room humidity is higher than 80% as BC discussed. Have you measured the room humidity? If so, remove fogger, and get room dehumidifier if possible. Coco substrate should only be slightly damp so it starts to clump in closed fist without dripping water out.

What do you use to heat enclosure at the present? Heat from infrared bulbs and ceramic heat emitters will dry air and help lower humidity. Good luck !

[Jimbok3]

I just said ventilation is NOT restricted in any way. What more can I do?

Sorry forgot to say to use a small computer fan to increase the airflow, pushing the humid air out (I typed my response late last night lol).

[GrifTheGreat]

In the summer months when it is warmer moisture will evaporate from the substrate causing higher humidity levels and thus making the fogger not run as much. Also if your probe has become wet it will read higher.

You set the tolerance higher on the Hygrotherm so that the humidity can drop lower before the fogger kicks on.

Like Carlos said their are many factors causing high humidity spikes. The water source for the frog is also a major factor.

[Lija]

I'm with Carlos on this one, these are the steps that you need to take:
-check hydrotherm readings, meaning get digital hydrometer and check of hydrotherm sensor is working properly.
- where is your sensor located? it should be 2" above the substrate level and away from water dish and fogger hose.
- check humidity of your room, if it is over 80% you should get dehumidifier, it is not healthy for you too and for your house/apartment

[Pyxiefan001]

I'm with Carlos on this one, these are the steps that you need to take:
-check hydrotherm readings, meaning get digital hydrometer and check of hydrotherm sensor is working properly.
- where is your sensor located? it should be 2" above the substrate level and away from water dish and fogger hose.
- check humidity of your room, if it is over 80% you should get dehumidifier, it is not healthy for you too and for your house/apartment

Well I'm quite sure the room humidity is not the problem lol. The sensor was placed on ground level, figured that was best sense that's where Frog is all the time. Will move it up. Thanks.

[GrifTheGreat]

Well I'm quite sure the room humidity is not the problem lol. The sensor was placed on ground level, figured that was best sense that's where Frog is all the time. Will move it up. Thanks.

That is the problem. 1.5" to 2" above the substrate is the ideal location of the sensor for terrestrial frogs and toads. Nirmally located in the center of the back wall 2" above the substrate away from the fogger tube and water dish as Lija stated, but also away from the main heat source Like a UTH on the side of the tank.