Pacman settling in time?

He looks healthy and yes they do take some time to adjust to their new home. Usually it takes them anywhere from an hour for some and up to a week for others. Cover 3 sides of the emclosure with. Some sort of background so he feels more secure.

Temp during the day should be 80 to 85 and night temp 75 to 79. Humidity should be maintained at 80%.

Do you de-chlorinate the water for your frog? If not you should. The chemicals in tap water can make your frog sick and can kill it.

Does he ignore the crickets or attempt to eat them?

These are nocturnal frogs and should be fed at night. Do you do so?

Answer these questions and keep us posted.

Hmm, at first people told me not above 80F. I did get a heat lamp that is 18" above my pixie and him and it keeps the tanks ~84-86F on one end and 76-78 on the other using a 12 hr cycle but off 2 hrs on 1 and repeat. They are in the living room which is basically all windows so I didn't want to cook them.

I do use a treatment for all their water as well as use the purifying things for you sink faucets which remove chlorine and other stuff.

He completely ignores them even when they walk past or on him, and moves back when you tong near his face with a cricket.

I have left 3 in there over each night and they are never eaten so I drop them in for my pixie which destroys them in the morning.

EDIT:
What should I use to cover teh sides could I use black spray paint and just cover the top (him not in there obviously)
I do like my home cold SO I usually leave it on 69-70F Though I have changed it to 72F recently.

Well I just went to check on them before bed. Pixie moved to a new hole and the PAC just took a poo a big as him lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

Originally Posted by cyris69

Well I just went to check on them before bed. Pixie moved to a new hole and the PAC just took a poo a big as him lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

He might have been constipated. Don't use spray paint. It takes forever for the fumes to go away and when it gets warm it still produces a strong odor. You can cover 3 sides with a nature background for terrariums or just use dark colored construction paper like black or dark brown. You should stay around 80 to 82 degrees so he doesn't get too hot.

You didn't answer what your frogs humidity level is. You must keep the humidity between 70 and 80% at all times. This is very important. Your frog is probably very stressed. Try night crawlers and see if he will eat them or wax worms.

Your frogs climate must be consistant and the day night cycle must be as well. If the temp keeps jumping around during the day and night from your lights turning on and off all the time it can cause stress. Are you keeping him in a critter keeper or in a glass tank?

Keep me posted.

He still hasn't eaten. His poo looked normal, no blood or anything.
As for humidity levels, I keep their husbandry the same as I did with my Emperor scorpions 75%+, I do not have a hydrometer so I can't give an exact but will pick up a few this evening.

I have no idea what to do to keep their temps constant, should I buy 2 or 3 4watt UTH and place them on the side of each tank. I wanted to go the cheap route with a heat lamp but even at 50watts and it keeps all the tanks hotter than 82 if left on for 12 hours. It's hard as well since my central air is on auto. It was easier with my inverts since I had a large closet dedicated to them so it was much easier to control.

Originally Posted by cyris69

He still hasn't eaten. His poo looked normal, no blood or anything.
As for humidity levels, I keep their husbandry the same as I did with my Emperor scorpions 75%+, I do not have a hydrometer so I can't give an exact but will pick up a few this evening.

I have no idea what to do to keep their temps constant, should I buy 2 or 3 4watt UTH and place them on the side of each tank. I wanted to go the cheap route with a heat lamp but even at 50watts and it keeps all the tanks hotter than 82 if left on for 12 hours. It's hard as well since my central air is on auto. It was easier with my inverts since I had a large closet dedicated to them so it was much easier to control.

It is a good idea to buy a UTH and place it on the side of the tank(not on the bottom like the name suggests) that is the warm side oposite the water dish. You should buy a heat lamp that has a dimmer switch so you can adjust the amount of light and heat coming from your bulb. This way it can be adjusted to a level that should not overheat the tank. The largest it comes in is (Fluker's 8.5" clamp lamp with Dimmer). Perhaps you should get one for each individual tank as well.

If you don't have a Hygrometer then you don't know what humidity level your Pac is at. I can assure you that it is well below what you believe it to be. You must always be prepared to care for your pet long before you get it. Setup should be up and ready to go with everything you need. If your frog does not have a humidifier and a unit to control the humidifier so that it turns it on and off when humidity is low or at the correct level then the misting even 4 times a day will not keep the humidity above household levels witch is far to low for a tropical frog. Also a screen to while providing ample ventilation also allows humidity and heat to escape as well as drafts to get in. You can. Buy plexiglass and drill air holes in it to cover your screen top to prevent humidity and heat from escaping.

You didn't answer me whether your Pac's tank was a plastic critter keeper or a glass tank. YOU MUST GIVE ME ALL INFORMATION ON YOUR FROG! It is difficult to help when you don't answer all questions. If its plastic you can only use the small Zoo Med UTH item #RH-7 because it does not get hot enough to melt plastic. If its glass then you need one that is the correct size for the tank.

Please note that A/C is extremely bad for frogs and can confuse them as well as make them sick. You MUST keep your frogs away from A/C at all tmes. Never keep the enclosure near an A/C vent or in a room cooled by A/C. There should never be drafts getting into your frogs enclosure.

Keep me posted.

Ok, just bought some hydrometers, and a 60gal zoo med uth to go across the backs of 3 10gal tanks. He is in a glass tank.

All rooms have vents for AC. I don't plan on getting into the duct work to plug it. The are all ground vents. I don't have a dedicated room setup yet but do plan on using the extra 14'x14'spare bedroom as my frog, roach, and scorpion room once it's finished.

I do appreciate all your help and will do my best to provide an excellent home for my frogs.

Our house utilizes a max5 1400 ionizer filter system for the whole house all air is circulated directly through it before it goes out the vents

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

Originally Posted by cyris69

Ok, just bought some hydrometers, and a 60gal zoo med uth to go across the backs of 3 10gal tanks. He is in a glass tank.

All rooms have vents for AC. I don't plan on getting into the duct work to plug it. The are all ground vents. I don't have a dedicated room setup yet but do plan on using the extra 14'x14'spare bedroom as my frog, roach, and scorpion room once it's finished.

I do appreciate all your help and will do my best to provide an excellent home for my frogs.

Our house utilizes a max5 1400 ionizer filter system for the whole house all air is circulated directly through it before it goes out the vents

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

Ok. The air quality isn't the problem. The cold drafts getting into the tank cause the problem and will make. Your frog stop eating. Also A/C. Removes moisture from the ambient room air which will also steal humidity and moisture from your. Frogs home. You might try to atleast block. Or cover the actual vent to prevent the cold air from affecting your frogs. A/C is very dangerous for frogs and Pacmans are extremely sensitive to climate change and a cold draft making it into the tank causes a sudden change in climate. This is more than. Likely the issue as well as low humidity levels.

Have you tried different types of food other than crickets?

I've tried crickets, roaches, mealworms, super worms, haven't tried night crawlers. Also for humidifier, do they make inside tank ones our that will go to multiple tanks. I'm on a budget

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

Originally Posted by cyris69

I've tried crickets, roaches, mealworms, super worms, haven't tried night crawlers. Also for humidifier, do they make inside tank ones our that will go to multiple tanks. I'm on a budget

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

Try night crawlers and if you have to cut them in half when you offer them to him so they're not too. Big. Maybe try a pinky mouse. If he won't take a frozen thawed dead one try a live pinky mouse. Hee might just go for it.

The closest thing to a system for multiple tanks is a Mist King, but its a misting system not a humidifier and you would need to add a false bottom to all your frogs enclosures so there is a drainage layer for excess water to go. Plus the humidifiers can be hooked up to a timer or a climate control unit like the Zoo Med Hygrotherm to control the units to. Maintain humidity where you need it. If they make a humidifier for multiple tanks I haven't seen it. Maybe you could buy one fogger(humidifier) and rig the tubing to go into each enclosure so it humidifies all at the same time. Worth a shot.

Sounds good, I'll get the fogger, also you hit the nail on the head about humidity. Got it up to 80% and my pixie was up jumping about. He ate as well.pacman hasn't came out though.

They all pooped though

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

You the man! The pacman is out and eating

Originally Posted by cyris69

You the man! The pacman is out and eating

Glad to hear it.

Next time make sure you're fully prepared. A lot of people wait until its far too late and they lose their frog. It happens too much.

Keep everyone updated on his progress with pics and updates.

I guess I was not fully prepared for what I assumed, though, you know what happens when you assume things. I'm going to work on getting that fogger and make a custom tube for three tanks as I happened across a quarter sized pacman. The pixie seems to love being right next to the heat pad which I know is more than 82F.

Thank you Grif for all the wonderful help, as well as everyone else! I will make sure to keep this thread updated with pics and statuses!

Newest addition:

You're welcome

Now babies should be kept at 80 to 82 during the day and you should try and stay around 78 at night. Humidity should still be 80%

Offer food daily for the baby and your juvinile. Dust their food with a reptile multivitamin once a week and with a calcium supplement that contains vitamin D3 every other feeding.

Good luck.

I don't have a multi vitamin I will try and pick one up tomorrow, me thinks I need to make an excel spreadsheet

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

Originally Posted by cyris69

I don't have a multi vitamin I will try and pick one up tomorrow, me thinks I need to make an excel spreadsheet

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

Read this Frog Forum - Pacman and Horned Frogs - Ceratophrys - Care and Breeding

It has a lot of valuable iinformation on your Pacs and their requirements. Some may differ a little from what I told you though, but don't worry. The infor I provided is spot on.

is it ok to put isopods in there to help clean.I used to do that with my inverts

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

Originally Posted by cyris69

is it ok to put isopods in there to help clean.I used to do that with my inverts

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

As long as you get them from a chemical and pesticide free area or order them from Josh's Frogs. You can also use springtails.